what kind of car rear end ???? did you unbolt the flangebehind the backing plates??? what kind of car rear end ???? did you unbolt the flangebehind the backing plates???
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To replace pinon bearing you need to pull wheels and the brake drums off next pull cover off the back of the rear end (make sure you have a drain pan under rear end) next turn dive shaft till you see a small bolt remove bolt pull center pin out push axle in pull c clips out pull axels out remove four bolts holding ring and spider gears remove gears assembly next remove drive shaft remove bolt from pinon push pinon in remove seal and bearing
Depending on which rear axle it has you may have a drum that is mounted inboard of the hub meaning that the the drum is held onto the hub with the wheel studs from the inside. To remove this type of drum you have to remove the axle shafts, hub bearing retaining nut, and the hub/drum assembly to get at the brakes. If the drum is mounted on the outboard side of the hub then it may just be stuck onto the hub or, if the drum is loose but just can't be removed then the brake shoes may be hanging up on the lip worn on the inside of the drum. The brake shoes would need to be backed off through the inspection/adjuster hole so the drum will slide over them. Hope this helps a bit and good luck!
fror fixing the brakesw take the other rear wheel off and duplicate what u see. to get the axel out u must first remove diff cover in center of rearend then u will see a clip for each side axel remove clip and axel will slide out. good luck fron 1 to 5 being difficult its a 3
safely support the van, remove rear wheel, remove brake drum, remove grease cap. remove caged locknut assembly (38mm socket i think.) then pull the hub assembly from the axel. you may need to cut away the inner race if the bearing falls apart. clean axel, apply alittle anti size compound, then push on the new hub assembly. tighten down the hub nut to specifications (should be on the leaflet in the new bearing package), install dust cap, install drum, install wheel, lower and drive :)
Yes, the axles have to come out, then the wheel bearings, and finally the drums will come off. Be careful when pulling the drums, pull them straight off the housing, do not allow them to drop on the housing tube, doing so will damage the inner wheel seal. When reassembling the bearings back in the drums just wipe grease on the outside of the bearing, do not pack them with grease. After the drum is back on put a squirt of rear end dope in the hub before putting the axle back in, top up the level in the rear differential, this is where the rear bearings get their lube from.
Does that truck have a floating axel? That is where you have the center hub with about 8 bolts that hold the axel shaft in. If that's the case, I'm pretty sure, the hub and drum have to be removed as an assembly. If there are no center bolts and it's just the end of the axel and it is stuck on the axel you may have to heat it with an oxygen/accetylne torch. If it's loose on the axel and the shoes are holding you have to go in through the hole in the backing plate (on the bottom) and back the adjuster off. The tricky part is holding the automatic adjuster arm out of the way so you can back the adjuster off. If you go in the hole with a screwdriver or brake adjusting you will only be able to turn that little wheel one way and that is tighter and you should hear the adjusting arm click. STOP you are going the wrong way. Take a small screwdriver and go under the adjuster on the back side (toward the rear of the vehicle), you should be able to feel the adjusting arm. Gently push the arm out of way, it won't move much, at the same time back the adjuster off. Good luck!
These are quite involved. you have to remove the rear axel and the seal is in between the bearing. you have to press off the bearing usually ruining it and have tio replace it. inner collor will have to be die grinded to split it enough to remove from axel
you could have a damaged drum .. many auto parts stores can test that for you .. could be a bent axel or flange (spin the rear wheel and see if it woobles ... or maybe you have a bent lug bolt .. the other symptoms you have are typical of a stuck emergency brake cable .. shoe/drum type brakes are regenerative in the forward direction .. that is they work with greater force forward than backwards .. so if you have a stuck emergency brake cable (and thats common for dodge) then you may have overheated the drum causing warping .. you can check to see if the cable moves freely by pulling sidways on it (if its open) or having someone operate and release with you under the truck .. it should move maybe an inch and release quickly . of course a bent flange or axel can cause a similar result ..
Job is not terribly difficult, but instructions are too long to re-write them. Get yourself a haynes manual (about 20 bucks) and it will guide you through the job. If you need any help along the way, I'll be glad to help! (manual will help with lots of other stuff as well!! If you have the setup I'm thinking of, make sure you buy a new diff cover gasket and gear lube along with axle bearing. good luck
what kind of car rear end ???? did you unbolt the flangebehind the backing plates???
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