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98 jetta - won't turn over. Replaced neutral safety switch, ignition switch and checked all wiring. Bat fine, starter good, I have no idea now. Could it be the starter solenoid or a coil issue?
it will start just fine after a dozen or so turns of the key. it did the same thing before replacing the Neutral safety switch and that seemed to fix the problem for about a year, but now it is back and I'm not conviced it is the same problem.
it will start just fine after a dozen or so turns of the key. it did the same thing before replacing the Neutral safety switch and that seemed to fix the problem for about a year, but now it is back and I'm not conviced it is the same problem.
I know this is an old, old posting, but I am having the same problem with my '98 Jetta. Lately it took several tries for the solenoid to get the signal from the ignition switch, but now it doesn't at all no matter how many times I try. Via my voltmeter I verified that the solenoid is not getting the signal from the ignition switch by having a friend switch to start position while I connected the test leads. My friend recommended checking the neutral safety switch, which I will do next. I am wondering whether you ever determined what caused the problem to recur AFTER replacing the neutral safety switch? Did the replacement also go bad?I know this is an old, old posting, but I am having the same problem with my '98 Jetta. Lately it took several tries for the solenoid to get the signal from the ignition switch, but now it doesn't at all no matter how many times I try. Via my voltmeter I verified that the solenoid is not getting the signal from the ignition switch by having a friend switch to start position while I connected the test leads. My friend recommended checking the neutral safety switch, which I will do next. I am wondering whether you ever determined what caused the problem to recur AFTER replacing the neutral safety switch? Did the replacement also go bad?
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Yes there is a starter relay in the wiring diagram. The yellow and lite blue wire goes from the starter solenoid to the relay. There is a yellow wire from the relay to a 30amp fuse. The key switch powers thru the neutral safety switch and then powers the relay on.
You may be right. Sometimes a starter test doesn't reveal everything. But before you pull the starter, do this quick test. It should confirm if problem is the starter or the ignition switch. When the car won't crank over, pull the small wire off the starter solenoid (on the starter), and check if it has power when key is held in crank position. You need a helper to hold the key in crank. If the wire has power (use a testlight or meter to check for power), and the starter won't crank, pull the starter off for testing or replacement. But if there is no power on the wire when key is held in crank, then it confirms that power is not being transmitted from the switch to the starter. Not to say for sure it is the switch, could also be another part in the path from switch to solenoid (like the neutral safety switch). But more common for the ignition switch to go out first. Either replace the switch or continue testing your start circuit. Post back with results or for further help. Good luck.
Check for power on the red with light blue wire at the ignition switch with the key in the crank position. If there is no power make sure there is power on the yellow wire at the ignition switch. Also check to make sure the key is making the full turn to the crank position.
If there is power than check for power on the Pink wire at the neutral safety switch on the side of the automatic transmission. If there is not power I need to know if you have the anti-theft system or not. If there is power than check for power out of the neutral safety switch on the red with light blue wire.
If there is power on that wire pull the starter relay and check to see if two pins are grounded all the time. One of the other two pins that are not grounded should have power all the time. The other pin should have power when the key is in the crank position.
That should get you started.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
It sounds like a fault in the starter circuit. It could be a defective neutral safety switch, starter solenoid, or possible a defective ignition switch but I doubt it. Can you hear the starter solenoid??? I'm willing to bet the problem is either with starter relay, neutral safety switch, or starter solenoid.
CHECK YOUR RELAYS, AND THE SUPER FUSE'S. ALSO CHECK YOUR GROUNDS YOULL BE SUPRIZE HOW MANY PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY GROUNDS. FUSES UNDER IGNITION, AND RELAYS ALSO UNDER IGNITION. I BELIEVE YOUR SEAT BELTS HAVE AN INTERUPT CIRCUIT TO THE IGNITION AS WELL DRIVER SIDE. CHECK FOR CONTUINTY TOO. SEND A FEEDBACK PLEASE
It's most likely the neutral safety switch. Try putting the shifter in Neutral and slipping it just a little toward Park and see if it'll crank. If it does the neutral safety switch is the problem but worn linkage is the cause.
You've already check or replace everything else so it has to be this or the ignition switch.
Frank,
There are a couple of things that I would check.
Make sure you have continuity to the neutral safety switch.
Do the lights come on in the dash when you try and start it ?
Do your lights turn on ?
Make sure you did not blow the main BAT fuse.
Do you have 12 volts at starter ?, how about when you turn the ignition to start, do you have 12 volts at solenoid on starter ?
Please let me know.
it will start just fine after a dozen or so turns of the key. it did the same thing before replacing the Neutral safety switch and that seemed to fix the problem for about a year, but now it is back and I'm not conviced it is the same problem.
I know this is an old, old posting, but I am having the same problem with my '98 Jetta. Lately it took several tries for the solenoid to get the signal from the ignition switch, but now it doesn't at all no matter how many times I try. Via my voltmeter I verified that the solenoid is not getting the signal from the ignition switch by having a friend switch to start position while I connected the test leads. My friend recommended checking the neutral safety switch, which I will do next. I am wondering whether you ever determined what caused the problem to recur AFTER replacing the neutral safety switch? Did the replacement also go bad?
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