While driving, the roof top warning message and accompanying beeps appeared. I stopped the car and pulled the roof top button in the up position hoping that it would resolve the problem as it had in the past. It did not .I opened the trunk manually with the skeleton key inserted in the emergency slot at the base of the back seat on the driver's side. I then attempted to close the trunk and it still had the gap when closed. Repeated these steps and with the partition in the down/locked position, I tried to retract the roof and it would not retract. I took it to the dealer and they are telling me that the partition must be in the down and locked position at all times. I was never told this when I purchased the car. I was told that I should not let anything touch any part of the mechanism and heed the parameters for storage. Now I feel the service rep is trying to blame me for the problem. Is it a fact the the divider must be in the down and locked position at all times? I really don't drive with the top down often so it is in the up position most of the time. I have had many problems with the roof top and they have fixed it three times . The first time they said a latch of some sort was replaced and the last time they said a motor was replaced. Are they passing the buck?
Try another dealer here in this case or a local bodyshop who may have a better idea ,these open top cars of all brands are tempremental and to top it all you get sunburn on the head ,give me a fixed roof anytime ,with a sun roof if you really want one .car is lighter as well owing to the motorised lifting stuff unles its a old morris minor or a old MG miget
SOURCE: Oil on side windows
Hi, Try White Vinegar on a dry cloth and rub well, then wash off with warm water. May Help.
SOURCE: 2001 Volvo S80 New control computer is messing up
I had a problem with my ambient air temperature sensor and the passenger side door lock. I was told that I needed a control module and that my battery was bad. When I replaced the battery, the module reset and everything started working again. Try disconnecting the positive cable from your battery and or having it checked at a local auto parts store.
SOURCE: Yesterday, on this website, I asked the following
this kind of a strange problem, you have what seam to be 3 un-related circuits that all started acting up at the same time, so i went to the wiring diagrams for the circuits to see if they share any common components, they do not. except for they all get their power supply from the same location. the central power supply box under the hood. it might be that a part of the power center has failed causing the three circuits to fail, the driver-side window switch gets it power from fuse # C15 (10amp) test that circuit for power with the key on if the fuse is good there should be power at both ends with the key on if power at only one end replace the fuse, if no power at all replace the power center.
all of the power points for these circuits are close together in the power center.
the other expert that told you to un-hook the battery was correct he or she was trying to reset the body control module which is the first step in any repair, we all wise want to make sure it is not just a soft ware problem before we send you on some wild goose chase.
check this and get back with me, i am getting ready for Church and will be gone for a few hours. but i will check back with the sight as soon as i get home.
SOURCE: 2004 Volvo V70 - can't
I HAVE A Volvo v70 2005 Everything is dead on the passenger door. no centre lock or window actuvation. The bad part I cannot open the door ( I think when there is no electric to the door the ded bolt keeps the door locked. How to get the door open so I can take the trim panel off to see why there a problem
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