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2003 ford windstar cruise not working, and overdrive flashing
I changed brakes, rotor and hub assembly. Now cruise control doesn't work, brake light on, overdrive off flashing. Mileage turns to dashes. What's going on? I checked fuses 9, 10,11,12,14,06 inside, 15 and 101 under hood. All fine. Thanks for any help.
Check your brake light switch at the pedal. This controls the lights and disengages the cruise when stopping. I'd look there before I go anywhere else. There may just be a wire loose. Could be a simple fix.
You might have cut a wire or it could have broken or disconnected. Try tracing the wiring where you hooked up the trailer you may find one broken or disconnected.
check to see if the car has a multifunction switch this switch controls everything from brake lights to hazard lights to wipers ect. so you want to call volvo parts ask them about the multifunction switch and ask them if the hazard switch is built into multi then replace the switch.
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I think you should buy repair manual first for your vehicle after that it will be easy for you to solve the problem. Check the link may be you will find something useful here Ford Windstar 1999 to 2003 Factory Service repair manual
On these case,to troubleshoot these problem,there are solved help links.Click the link directly and refer the details to solve these problem yourself,with help of diagrams:------ Ford ranger cruise control not working?
Hi Will: Keep in mind that Cruise Control dont work if your speedometor have some problem. The fuse diagram could be find in the Windstar Owners Manual, I suggest to check in Passenger Compartment Fuse Box... position 10, 10AMP, for Speed Control Module, and position 14, 10AMP for Transmission Overdrive Cancel Switch.
Sometimes, this was found to caused by an all too common defect in the Windstar.
The brake master cylinder leaks out of the area where the brake switch
screws into it from the bottom. The switch has control wiring going to
it which feeds various other systems. Ford makes a "Brake Repair"
package to solve all of this. It only costs $ 20.00. It comes with a new
switch and a wiring pigtail adapter. Simply remove the air filter to
get at the master cylinder and remove the old brake switch.
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I replaced the hub bearing assembly on drivers side twice and the light stayed on and the brakes worked fine. It was the wires (visible just above the tire on the frame) that rubbed against the frame that had shorted out. It was simply repaired and clip-stripped up out of the way. The light has been off every since then.
I have had the same scenario. In addition, the speedometer did not work, the overdrive was intermittent, the brake light
was illuminated, and the cruise control did not function. This was
found to caused by an all too common defect in the Windstar. The brake
master cylinder leaks out of the area where the brake switch screws into
it from the bottom. The switch has control wiring going to it which
feeds various other systems. Ford makes a "Brake Repair" package to
solve all of this. It only costs $ 20.00. It comes with a new switch and
a wiring pigtail adapter. Simply remove the air filter to get at the
master cylinder and remove the old brake switch. I would clean the
associated wiring with alcohol (on a cool engine) and allow it to dry
and then re-tape and/or heat shrink tubing over the wiring for future
protection. Install the new switch and adapter pigtail along with
another 10a fuse in the driver's side fuse panel and you are all
set....... much less than Ford would charge!
this was for my 2000 windstar it might just be your fuse i would start there
Check to see if your brake lights are staying on.
I thought my cruise control stopped working too, but realized that it would not work because the brake light control on the brake pedal was stuck.
I changed the $40 control and the cruise control works.
You have a faulty wheel speed sensor. This is a magnetic pick up sensor on your wheel bearing hub and it controls your abs. If the car can not sense all 4 wheels then the abs will default back to normal brakes and your traction control will not work. Look at your wheel bearing hubs and check for these sensors. They are on the underside of the car and are black plastic with a wire comming out of it. A piece of gravel may have broken the pick up or the wires to a sensor may be broken as well. To replace it is usually a couple of screws on the hub assembly and a plug to disconnect from your wire harness.
So this is what it takes to replace rear brake rotors on a 2003 Mercedes E320;
1) open the bonnet (hood) of the car and loosen/remove the cap off of the brake fluid resevior.
2) remove outer spring clamp from brake assembly (it clips in to the iner edge of the holes of the caliper).
3)using a 7 MM allen wrench, remove the brake caliper.
4) using 18 MM box wrench, remove the caliper housing assembly off of the wheel hub.
5) using a star wrench, unscrew the rotor locking screw from the rotor
6) squirt some liquid wrench on the rotor hub and knock the rotor with a hammer to work the liquid wrench in.
7) using the same hammer, knock the rotor off the hub.
8) using a metal file, lightly file old residue off of the hub and place the new rotor on the hub.
9) set the hub by screwing in the lug nuts and then screw in the hub locking screw using the star wrench, then remove the lug nuts.
10) reinstall the caliper housing assembly onto the wheel hub using the 18 MM box wrench.
11) push back the brake claiper piston to its home position and install the inner brake pad (the one with the snap clips)
12) insert the outer brake pad in the claper housing assembly.
13) slide on the caliper housing with the inner brake pad in place (over the outer brake pad) and screw in the caliper screw rods using the 7 MM allen wrench
14) on the right wheel brakes, DO NOT FORGET to slide in the brake sensor (the one with the black connector) and connect it to the connector on the caliper housing.
15) be sure to reinsert the spring clamp onto the outer brake assembly to set the assembly squarely onto the wheel (there should be no wiggle in the brake assembly after the spring clamps are installed).
16) finally mount the wheels.
17) you can bleed the brakes at this point to release any trapped air (which is unlikely) but be sure to pump the brakes after starting the car BUT BEFORE MOVING IT to re-preassurize the brake system before driving the car.
17) ONE WEEK LATER - recheck brake assembly to ensure all is okay and brake fluid.
This proposed solution is for a 2003 Mercedes Benz E320 and NOT a 2005 model as stated by the limited option selection provided by FIXYA.com when initially describing the problem.
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