How do you adjust hydraulic clucth and bleed slave cylinder
SOURCE: BLEEDING CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
I have often found that the very action of bleeding the clutch causes the slave piston to move forward drawing any air away from the bleed nipple.
Try pushing the piston all the way to the back of the cylinder and holding it there in some way and if you can detach the slave from the gearbox, allow it to hang by the hydraulic pipe and this in it self will cause any air to rise to the rear part of the slave and hopefully out through the bleed nipple.
Because I did this job regularly on MG Midgets which gave you a 6" by 2" access hole at the bottom of the drivers side footwell to carryout this operation I eventually made up a tool from a piece of flat bar and a long bolt, I used the mounting holes of the slave and two nuts and bolts to hold the flat bar and the long bolt via a welded nut on the flat bar to push the piston back.
I feel your pain.
SOURCE: Hydraulic clutch problems
i have a ktm 125 wich all ktms have hydraulic cluthcs and i have the same problem as all these fellas even when im riding it just sucks right down all the fluid reply to me on [email protected] ok thanks fellas
SOURCE: Can't bleed master and slave clutch cylinders on
U will need a special tool called a pressure bleeder and a source of pressurized air..
SOURCE: leaking clutch 85 s10 blazer
First, unless you have just done some clutch work you should not need to be bleeding the clutch hydraulic system...that shows that it's leaking. There is nothing inside the bellhousing that has anything to do with clutch fluid, so, the fluid you see is either engine or transmission oil (rear main seal or seal on trans input shaft) Could it be that the clutch slave is leaking and it's running down and dripping at the bottom of the housing? (clean it up and check that)
SOURCE: Steps on bleeding a clutch slave cylinder for a
1.) fill resovior 2.) remove bolts connecting the slave cylinder to the bell housing, and remove slave cylinder (leave the line connected if possible)- if not remove line and then reconnect once slave is removed from bell housing. 3.) open bleeder valve on slave, if fluid starts to run out then let it run for 8 to 10 min (all the while keeping an eye on the resovior fluid level, making sure it stays relitivly full.) 4.) close bleeder valve. 5.) top off resovior. 6.) hold slave cylinder in hand, in some way that you can actuate the plunger rod, open the bleeder valve and depress the rod untill it stops, while holding pressure on rod close the bleeder valve. 7.) release the plunger rod. 8.) repeat steps 6. & 7. untill fluid running out of bleeder valve is a steady streem with no air bubbles. (check resovior appr. every 2nd time to ensure it dose not go dry. 9.)re-install slave cylinder and resovoir cap.
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