Shaft at front of engine making noise?

A "click" or "thump" noise can be caused by several factors, including: suspension: Loose or worn suspension components, such as control arm bushings, control arm connections, and struts, can cause rattling noises when climbing over bumps. Drivetrain: Worn or damaged drive shafts, constant velocity joints, or differential components can also cause rattling noise. break: Worn or loose brake parts such as calipers and rotors can cause a rattling noise when applying and releasing the brakes. engine: If the engine rattles, there may be a problem with the engine mounts or the timing belt. These are just some of the possible causes of knocking noise and an accurate diagnosis can only be made by a specialist after an inspection.

Hi Kai:
The first things that I would check would be the drive sprocket and chain tension.

Hi, if it sounds like a tractor and is feeling rough and less powerful than normal, my guese is the timing chain guide (possibly top guide) has come loose. If you can get van over a pit, on jack stands or on hoist and while engine is running, the noise will be louder at front of engine by the timing chain housing, you could also feel the guides rattling, hence the tractor noise. As the engine is revved to higher RPM's the chain vibrates faster and the guide is forced off the chain so the noise lesson's. Parts are available, but before ordering parts you will have to disassemble timing chain housing and check the guide bolt thread on engine side are not threaded, otherwise re-threading the hole and finding the right bolts to fit guide plates can be a nightmare, but you can use helicoil, which expensive but effective. Check also the housing, it may have wear marks due to guides rubbing on it which is not a problem, but as oil circulates through it you wouldnt want it to leak out.
Hope this helps.

If the car is an automatic, it will have a thin metal flex plate, rather than a regular flywheel. If the flexplate gets a crack in it, it would cause a bit of noise. See if there is an inspection plate on bottom front of transaxle. Remove the inspection cover to look at the flex plate. Turn the engine over to view the flexplate all around. Look for cracks, maybe a loose or missing mounting nut where torque converter mounts on flex plate. If you see nothing, leave the inspection cover off, and run the engine and listen closely for a problem from that area.
Leaking oil, eh? Don't know if related, but while looking at the flexplate, check if motor oil is leaking out the rear main crankshaft seal. It will be fitted to the rear engine block, in front of the flex plate. Oil would be dripping off the rear of engine, or maybe collecting at bottom of bell housing, evident when inspection cover is removed.

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the longer you run it if the bushing are bad the drive shaft gets more damaged ebay has a set for cheap it takes two one near engine and one behind front Assembly

Hi.
I think the problem is the power take off for the front fan ,steering etc. Underneath the middle of the car you will see what looks like a small propshaft pointing towards the front with a doughnut shapped mounting bolted to each end. These rubber joints wear and rattle on tick over or low revs cost is about £40 for the 2 from Japarts
Takes about 2 hours to change.Hope this helps Good luck

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The knocking or ticking is going to determine if it is in the top end, lifters, push-rod or rocker arm issue or the bottom end that would include pistons or bearings.
If it is a ticking noise, it will more than likely be a valve train issue.
If a knocking noise, piston or crankshaft related problem.

Attached is a web site that you can listen to a piston slap which is a known issue for your 4.3.
Listen to the noise and see if it sounds similar to your problem. A piston slap will generally sound as though it is coming from the central area of the engine.
Listen to the recording and let me know.
Regards,

ok its a thought off my head that i can think of right off
the brake on drivers side is binding and the squiller pin i call it is rubbing on rotor you probably need a brake inspection there free at brake masters