Tie rod replacement- Easy or quick way.

The leak is not from the inner tie rod. It is from the rack and pinion. Racks come with the inner tie rods.

It may be stuck on defrost cycle due to a bad timer... is there an adjustable switch that you could adjust it should start up... let me know......

webbraymond2, Yes, you have to remove the outer tie to access the inner tie rod. When you do this, count the rotations of the tie rod as this will have to be replaced when the new inner tie rod is installed. Counting the rotations will allow you to put the outer tie rod close to where it was when you started the job. You are changing the toe setting when you have to replace either the inner or outer tie rod. You need to access and remove the jamb nut and boot before you can access the inner tie rod and this is why the outer needs to be removed first. A wheel alignment is advised after you finish the job. Good luck with this.

You will need to rent or borrow in inner tie rod tool but here are the directions.
1. Break the jam nut on inner tie rod to outer loose.
2. Remove nut from outer tie rod attaching it to steering knuckle.
3. Use hammer to get tie rod out of knuckle.
4. Unscrew outer tie rod then jam nut
5. Remove clamp from boot and slide off inner tie rod.
6. Using side cutter or hammer and chisel break off metal clamp on the inside of inner tie rod boot.
7. Using inner tie rod tool, unscrew inner tie rod from rack and pinion
8. Reinstall parts and have it aligned

Real simple, assuming you know how to take the outer tie rods off. You have to take the clip that holds the plastic boot on off, then slide back the plastic boot, and you'll be able to unscrew the whole inner tie rod assembly. The hardest part of the whole process is installing the new ones to the exact settings of the old ones

Yes degreaser will not hurt it. The outer tie rod is retained only by one nut that connects it to the inner tie rod.Once you have this loosen just turn the outer tie rod to the left to remove it from the inner tie rod.

You have left and right inner tie rods and outer tie rods on your car.
You also have lower ball joints which can wear loose too....not to mention the left and right struts and upper strut bearings.

A cheap (China) tie rod may last only a year.(plastic inner wear points)
A good quality tie rod may last 10.(nylon and/or metal wear points)

I used this website: http://www.allpar.com/fix/intrepid-steering.html It worked perfectly. To add to it, I used a tie rod puller tool rented from Oreilly Auto Parts for only a few bucks, to press the old bushing out of the inner-tie-rod end. Worked very well. Easier than removing the entire tie rod, and hammering it out. However, removing the entire tie rod would make re-assembly easier. If I did it again, I would strongly consider removing the driver side tie rod from the car, then attaching the inner tie rod end 1st. Meaning, attach the passenger side inner tie rod 1st, then the driver side inner tie rod with new bushing, then re-attach the drivers side outer tie rod. That would probably be the easiest way on this 1996 dodge concorde, due to the fuel line that's in the way....

There is a tool that you can use that will make it easier for you. To get to the tie rod end, remove the wheel and take the outer tie rod end loose from the hub. You will have to use a hammer and hit the socket where the end goes into the hub to free it up. Once you have the tie rod loose from the hub, loosen the nut behind the outer tie rod end. Count the revolutions as you unscrew the outer end off and write te number down so you will know how far to put it back on. This will save your alignment. Now, the end that is still there is your inner tie rod end. You will have to undo the bellows boot to get to the nut. The tool will slide over the end and secure onto the nut. Now you just unscrew this and replace with you new inner tie rod end.
Please remember to rate this fix.

you must remove or slide the inner tie rod boot outward on the rod and then thread the tie rod out of the steering rack. there is a section of the tie rod on the inside of the ball joint that has flat spots to get a open end wrench onto. to check your tie rods, simply jack the wheel off of the ground, grab the either side of the tire, and wiggle it towards and away from you. if you feel any play at all the tie rods must be replaced. also a god indication is when the front tires start to wear excessivly on the inside or outside edges.

as for the cv axle, it has a retainer ring on the end of the splined shaft. all thats reqired is to seat the splines in the transaxle (transmission) and the tap (shouldnt take too much) the outer end of the axle with a mallet or hammer. it will pop into place.

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