Readiness code Replaced battery now my car will not start

Did you recently clear the trouble codes or disconnect the battery? Once all codes are cleared, the computer will not display systems 'ready' until they go through an evaluation cycle. Some of the systems require a certain number of drive cycles before they will display 'ready'. A drive cycle is usually starting the engine from a cold start (based on coolant temperature) and driving until certain conditions are met. I don't know what the requirements are for your car, but my 2003 pickup truck requires more than 10 drive cycles before it will make the O2 sensors and evaporative emissions 'ready'. Most states only require that a certain number of systems are showing 'ready' to pass emissions certification.

there is still a problem with
motor itself
the 02 sensors
the catalytic converter or the
engine emissions /gas .. filtering /re burn system

there is a code in the PCM that needs to be checked out. a light the stays on tells you this a flashing light tells you what ever the problem is can cause a running problem possible engine damage and is allowing the emissions to go out of range.

Yes what doesnt show on the outside is loose contact on the inside

The definition for P1000 code is as follows:
OBD II Monitor Testing not complete
You may be experiencing ECM computer problems. Have it diagnosed by a certified ASE professional.

It means the car isn't ready for emmisions testing yet, needs to be run a few start & run cycles for things to come online to the computor. If you had a dead or replaced the battery this would come up, it would also come up if you erased the codes from the PCM.

You may have a defective coolant or air temp sensor. These need to be accurate in order for some of the monitors to run. Your going to need a diagnostic scanner to see the data so you can determine what is wrong.

If you had replaced or unhooked the battery just pryor to geting the smog then thats the problem. Just drive the truck for a couple days and you should be fine.

You will still pass the test if you still have 2 monitors not set. California allows that. 3 fail

Ken,
You will want to take your car to your local Auto Zone or Advance auto and ask them to scan the car for trouble codes. They will do it for you at no charge and you will see what is causing the the service engine light to come on. You can write the codes down and respond back so we can start diagnosing.
Let me know what the codes are, good luck.
Regards,

Hi there. When you purchased the battery was it supplied to you as dry cell battery? If so, was the battery filled with distilled water and left for at least 30 minutes to become effective/charge? If the battery was purchased (wet) already filled with distilled water, is it fully charged, effective and ready to go? When you say the car will not start, is the engine cranking over at full speed? If it is, then we need to consider quite a number of points. Firstly, are you absolutely sure the correct specification of battery is fitted and are the positive and negative terminals exactly the same and the right way round? If so, firstly, to ‘reset’ everything, switch off the ignition (in fact remove the ignition key) disconnect the battery for at least 5 seconds and then reconnect the battery. Then try starting the car. If the car does not start you then need to view if the PGM-FI ECU has any fault codes flashing. If there is a code showing, I’m afraid to say that you will need to seek the help of a Honda Dealer. Hope this helps get you started. Scottech.

I think you are ready for a battery, especially if it's never been replaced. You can take it out and have it tested for free at autozone or many other good parts stores.  It may start when it's warmer because the oil is thinner and it takes less effort to turn the engine then.
I've replaced the battery within a couple of minutes (my battery tested good) without having to set the radio code.  Beware if the battery is out for any length of time, you may need to have some of the ECM reset.  Best best is to figure out how to get the battery out and unhooked at home WITHOUT actually doing it,  then go to parts store with the tools you now KNOW will work,  pop it out, put it on their tester, and get the old or new battery back in the car soon.  I don't know how long you have, but I seem to remember everything being OK for 15 minutes or so.