Security, battery, check engine lights while starting. Car does not crank, or attempt to crank (no clicking). Have full power for radio, windows etc. Just replaced the battery and even checked it with multimeter. Here's what happens at startup: Key in ignition: nothing Key up to accessory: battery light Key up to ON: battery + security + check engine Key up to Crank: check engine Key down to ON: battery + check engine It's an intermittent problem, and when it does happen, performing the 10-minute passlock relearn procedure occasionally works (50%). When that doesn't work, doing the 30-minute relearn does work.

Year make and model helps. Resetting the security is 10 minutes on and 30 seconds off. then start.

Sounds like either the battery is too dead or the battery cable connections are dirty. A very low battery will still power most accessories, e.g.: radio, blower motor, wipers, horn etc. because they are not drawing much amperage, nothing over 20 amps or so. However, the starter motor draws around 200 amps, and the clicking solenoid occurs from a lack of available battery power. Check the battery to see that it's fully charged. If the battery is charged and electrically sound the most likely problem is cable connections or a bad cable. Hope this helps get you on the right track.

Sounds like the starter could be going bad or frozen. But before I did that I would check the battery to see if it has enough power to start the car. Your battery could have enough power to run radio and lights but not have enough cranking power to start the car especially if you are in a cold area. Low temperatures can cause your starter to freez and your battery to not crank the engine.

Change the battery, your battery gone bad, and isn't fully recharging itself, and isn't havn't the min cranking amp require by your car to startup the engine, however there still enought charge in there only to power windows, radio etc. When starting a engine, you need at least a min cranking amp, and requires more when it's cold outside.

If the starter cranks but the engine won't start, there could be wide range of problems. Here are some of the most common:
- Problems with fuel delivery system (e.g bad fuel pump, fuel pump relay, clogged fuel screen, etc.)
- Problem with engine electronics (e.g crank sensor, cam sensor, air flow sensor, power relay, engine computer, etc.)
- Ignition system problems, especially on older vehicles with the distributor (e.g bad ignition coil, commutator, rotor, distributor cap, etc.)
- Defective ignition switch
- Problems with vehicle security system
- Internal engine problems (e.g broken timing belt or gear, low compression, etc.)

Make sure that you have fuel in the tank. It may be that your vehicle fuel gauge isn't working properly.The first signs that there is too little fuel in the tank are occasional lugging, loss of power, and a louder, irregular sound of the electric fuel pump coming out from the fuel tank

Do you hear a fairly loud 'click' when you try to start? That should be the solenoid for the starter that is trying to work. You need a test light or voltmeter to check what is happening to the starter itself. When the solenoid clicks, it is pulling a very heavy electrical contact closed which applies 12 volt power to the starter motor. Check the large terminal on the solenoid that has the + battery cable attached--the test light should light before and during any attempt to start (the meter should indicate 12 volts). If the light goes out during the start attempt, clean the battery terminals and check the condition of both cables. If still no start, test the starter side terminal of the solenoid--the light should come on only when start is attempted. If it does, the starter is bad. If you get no light at all, the solenoid is bad. If the battery negative cable is connected to the car body, check for a broken or loose cable that runs from the car body over to the engine. Hope this helps!

GO TO THE STARTER AND CHECK THE S TERMINAL(SMALL WIRE GOING TO SOLENOID) FOR POWER W/THE KEY IS CRANKED.IF NO POWER THERE THAN THE SECURITY SYSTEM MAY HAVE A PROBLEM.IF YOUR IGNITION KEY HAS A BLACK CHIP IN IT THAT IS FOR THE SECURITY SYSTEM.THE IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER HAS 2 WIRES COMING OFF IT INSIDE THE STEERING COLLUM.THOSE WIRES BREAK QUITE OFTEN,THEN THE STARTER WON'T CRANK

Have you tried turning the engine over with a socket on the crank bolt.

CHECK FOR SIGNS OF MICE IN AND AROUND THE FUSE BOX AND AIR CLEANER AREA. SOUNDS LIKE A CHEWED WIRE OR 6

THESE MIGHT HELP OUT,
TURN KEY ON AND TURN OFF ALL ACCESSORIES,RADIO,A/C,ETC,LOWER DRIVER SIDE WINDOW, MAKE SURE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED,THEN TURN KEY OFF,THEN ON,LEAVE KEY ONN FOR ABOUTH 10 MINUTES UNTIL SECURITY LIGHT IS STEADY ON,
TURN KEY OFF FOR 10 SECONDS AND START THE CAR.
MOST TIME THE KEY SECURITY AND THE MODULE NEED REPROGRAMING,
HOPE THESE HELP.