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This sounds like a vacuum or hydrolic issue. If The pedal is spongy soft while its running it indicates air in the brake line, or faulty master cylinder, or faulty brake booster. A faulty master cylinder would get hard after a few pumps of the pedal. Since the pedal is hard when it is shut down, it makes me lean toward the brake booster.
bleed the brakes again . start with the rear right wheel then rear left then right front . do it several times and ensure there is no air in the system
You will need to bleed the brake system. I would start with the rear brakes lines and work towards the front.You must have key off engine off when bleeding brakes, apply pressure on brake pedal 10 times and hold. The brake line is now ready to be open. Open and let the stream of fluid come out and close the line tight. Then release brake pedal once bleeder screw is close. This procedure must be repeated twice front and back. After, brakes have been bleed pump the brake pedal before putting in drive. Note: Don't let the resevoir run low on brake fluid. This will cause air bubbles to accumulate on the brake system. Always top off before opening bleeder screw.
First check each wheel brake cylinder for small leaks. If no leaks then the brakes have not been bled properly. Liquid will not compress like air, thus the reason pumping the pedal makes the brake pedal come up. If you had all of the air out of the lines then you pedal would not be soft. With your pedal going to the floor either there is air in the lines or fluid is slowly leaking.If it is a small leak on one of your wheel cylinders, it may be hard to detect without pulling the wheels off and looking. Small leaks on your wheel cylinders may never drip off of the car.
try bleeding the master cylinder at the lines first as it indicates that there is still air in the pistons
loosen one line at a time and gently apply the brakes until any air bubbles come out tighten the line before releasing the brake pedal
do it for the other line and then bleed all the brakes starting at the longest line first and ending at the shortest line
THE MASTER CYLINDER NEED TO BE BLED FIRST.BEFORE PUTTING ON THE CAR.TO MANUAL BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM.YOU NEED 2 PEOPLE TO DO A BETTER JOB.YOU FIRST BLEED THE LEFT REAR RIGHT REAR LEFT FRONT AND RIGHT FRONT. WHEN YOU BLEED THE BRAKES.HAVE THE HELPER PUMP BRAKES 3 PUMPS.AND HOLD BRAKE PEDAL IN.YOU NEED A CLEAR BLEEDER HOSE IN A CLEAR BOTTLE HALF WITH CLEAN BRAKE FLUID. WITH BLEEDER HOSE ON BLEEDER SCREW AND OTHER END BLEEDER HOSE IN BOTTLE OF BRAKE FLUID.WHILE HELPER PUMP BRAKE PEDAL HOLD IT IN OPEN BLEEDER SCREW 1/4 TURN ALLOWING AIR BUBBLES LEAVE THE BRAKE SYSTEM.CLOSE THE BLEEDER SCREW BEFORE BRAKE PEDAL RELEASE.HAVE HELPER PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 3 TIMES. WITH PEDAL HELD DOWN OPEN BLEEDER SCREW GETTING AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM.WHEN YOU SEE SOLID FLUID COMING OUT OF BLEEDER HOSE THE AIR IS OUT THE BRAKE SYSTEM.DONT DRIVE CAR ON HIGHWAY IF YOU STILL CANT GET SOLID BRAKES. HAVE CAR TOWED IN TO BE PRESSURE BLEED.
this problem is caused by a vacuum leak inside the power brake vacuum booster unit (rubber diaphram), here is a photo of that part which is under the hood, the brake master cylinder is mounted to it.
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