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Always start back at the beginning. Remove the master cylinder and bleed it before fitting. Then you can bleed the hub furtherest away from the master cylinder, working your way towards the closest. Also make sure all the pistons/wheel cylinders are pushed all the way home first.
The inside, large pin, that pushes out to the hydroboost, may have fallen out when you took off the booster. Also the pin from the booster to the master cylinder may have been stuck inside the hydroboost that you took out. Pull the master cylinder off. You will see that the large shaft/pin is missing. Good luck.
when you replaced the master cylinder , did you bench bleed it , in order to get all of the air out it, before installing it, and afterwards, it is recommendable to bleed all 4 wheels to get the air out also. "also some of the times , when a brake booster goe's bad the brake pedal can also become spongy.
Unless you have some wierd oddball modified car......its a vaccum booster, not electric. Usually if they go bad, you will have a hard brake pedal and/or hissing noise when pushing the brake pedal .
Excessive runout or wobble in a disc (Rotor) can increase pedal travel due to piston knockback and increase piston seal wear due to necessity of caliper to follow disc wobble.
Thickness variation in a disc can also result in pedal pulsation, chatter and surge due to variation in brake output when disc section is uneven. Dishing or distortion can be caused by extreme heat and abuse of the brakes. Hope this helps, Good luck.
I worked on a Dodge car one time and I had a problem with the brakes almost similiar to yours.It turns out a cheap pair of brake pads can mess up your system. I would suggest Bendix pads I also noticed you didn't mention the rear shoes. Any way use better pads it might help.
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