I have a 1997 Lincoln Town Car. Discovered a hydraulic brake lead near left rear wheel. Hydraulic lines run along frame, separated from body by body cushions Appears that body cushions have compressed and caused body to contact and rupture hydraulic lines. I need advice. Already thought of hand grenade or junk yard. I have floor jacks, jack stands, tools and time.

The brake system on your vehicle consists of hydraulic lines that run from the master cylinder to each wheel. The lines are typically made of steel and are routed along the frame rails and body of the vehicle. There are also flexible hoses that connect the brake lines to the brake calipers or wheel cylinders at each wheel. If you need to replace a brake line on your vehicle, it is important to use the correct size and type of line to ensure proper operation of the brake system. The diameter of the brake line is typically 3/16 inch, but it is always best to confirm this by measuring the existing line or consulting the vehicle's service manual. When replacing brake lines, it is important to use a tubing bender to create the necessary bends in the lines. Sharp bends or kinks can cause the brake line to fail, which can lead to a loss of brake fluid and a loss of braking power. If you are not confident in your ability to replace a brake line on your own, I would recommend consulting a qualified mechanic for assistance. They can help you identify the correct brake line to use, and can install it for you to ensure proper operation of your vehicle's brake system.

The rear brake line should run down the left frame rail from the master cylinder to the rear of the car. It will terminate to a bulkhead reverse flare fitting into a rubber hose above the center of the axel differential cover, a tee fitting will tee the lines to each rear wheel backing plate, reverse flare fitting for wheel cylinder. If brake fluid is present (droplets) at brake drums, Replace the wheel cylinders.

Bad master cylinder . What are you using a scan tool for ? No need Unless your Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Important: If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes

You have several choices for brake lines. Probably your best is to buy a coil of brake line and run yourself another set. The better material and easier to bend is a nickel-copper blend. Volvo perfected the mix and it is suppose to survive a salt water bath for 18 years. You can reuse the line ends and then bend and flare the ends to match. A double crimp is needed for line ends so a flare kit with the double flare fixture is more desirable than resetting a single flare to make a second imprint.

Harbor Freight has some workable bending tools which should last long enough to do the job. Regular steel lines are cheaper but harder to bend.

There are preformed kits available, but suggest they may be designed to run in same crushed areas. You want to consider jacking the vehicle in the future. Run lines high on frame next to floor pan. Avoid catalytic converters. Run lines along inside facing surface of frame. Collision damage is usually on outside facing frame surface. This way brakes may survive side collision if you run the way I suggest.

Hello, first you Toyota has dual braking system. It goes like this: Left front brake with right rear brake, the right front brake with left rear brake. This a braking safety system that has been incorporated in auto/trucks for a few years now. If brake line is broken. loose wheel caliper, blow caliper piston, any thing that happens to the brake system. You will still have two wheels that have their hydraulic system. Also, the emergency brake will a manual system for the rear wheels.


Why do you need to change your auto brake lines? That valve you are talking about is a load stabilizer valve. It used to limit the amount of hydraulic fluid as more load is place in the rear of your Toyota. Example. by press on the brake pedal, it activates hydraulic pressure to the four wheel disk braking system. The braking system needs to stabilize the hydraulic pressure to the wheel to keep the vehicle moving in a forward motions. Now, by loading the rear of the vehicle this transfer the load disposition of the vehicle by making it heaver in the rear. Therefore, the load compensator valve limit the amount of hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.



Another thing to remember about this rear load valve, they will get plugged. and the vehicle will not have enough braking pressure for the rear wheels. I hope I answer you question about this load portion valve in the rear of Toyota. GB...stewbison

there are 2 from the abs box in engine compartment run down frame to rear wheels

Bleeding the Brake System
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or
replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because
air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is
necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged.

When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning
at the cylinder with the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master
cylinder) first. ALWAYS Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained
from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is.

The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are separate and are bled
independently. During the bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run
dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid.

1. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and
   fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 I n.
   (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.
   
2. Clean the bleeder screws at all 4 wheels. The bleeder screws are located on
   the top of the brake calipers.
   
3. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other
   end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
   
4. Starting at the right rear proceed in this order left front, left rear and
   right front.
   
5. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the
   brake pedal.
   
6. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to
   return slowly. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
   
7. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the
   bleeder screw and remove the hose.
   
8. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this
   after bleeding each wheel.
   
9. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.

ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (and HCU-Hydraulic Control Unit)
General Information The 4-Wheel Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is an electronically operated, all wheel brake control system. Major components include the power brake booster, master cylinder, the wheel speed sensors, and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) which contains the control module, a relay, and the pressure control valves. The system is designed to ****** wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip when braking. Retarding wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the wheel brake units. When the control module detects a variation in voltage across the wheel speed sensors, the ABS is activated. The control module opens and closes various valves located inside the HCU. These valves, called dump and isolation valves, modulate the hydraulic pressure to the wheels by applying and venting the pressure to the brake fluid circuits. Some models are equipped with a Traction Assist (TA) system. The TA system senses wheel spin upon acceleration, turns on the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) pump and applies fluid pressure to the appropriate rear wheel. Two additional isolation valves in the HCU will also close to permit fluid to flow only to the rear wheels. The TA system monitors TA usage to avoid overheating the rear brakes. If the system does sense brake overheating, the ABS module will inhibit TA operation until the rear brakes are permitted to cool down.
---
SYSTEM COMPONENTS The anti-lock brake system consists of the following components:

• Vacuum booster and master cylinder assembly
• Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
• ABS module
• Wheel sensors
• Pedal travel switch

---
On 1992-1994 and 1995-00 a scanner is used to perform the brake bleed. But on yours, I think it's different according to the manual.
---
What do you mean change the cal. on the rear also? Do you mean Caliper?

Check the electro-hydraulic control unit mounted on the left side frame underneath the cab. Its made up of the brake pressure modulator valve (bpmv) and the electronic brake control module (ebcm). This controls hydraulic pressure to the brake calipers to prevent wheel lock up. Also check the abs sensor mounted on the transfer case.

There are many brake lines in your car. The longest one, that reaches to the rear brakes is likely two pieces with a junction somewhere around the drivers door on the inside of the left frame rail.