My front right brake on my 2006 ford focus is locking up.I have had my rotors replaced and cut(twice),front calipers (twice), (and housing),pads (twice), lines all replaced.i have had my rear brakes cleaned and adjusted. Pressure is good, abs no bad scans. I have taken it to a mechanic (6 times) and Ford (1 time). They can not figure out the culprit. I think the brake lock up is what causes the caliper to fail. HELP

Why worry about buying a special tool when the job can be done with a G clamp. After removing the caliper from the rotor remove the outer brake pad and leave the inner pad where it is against the piston. Now with the G clamp place the end of the clamp on the back of the caliper and the adjustable part onto the brake pad slowly wind the clamp dawn against the brake pad which will in turn push the caliper piston all the way back into the caliper. Then remove the brake pad and replace with new ones. Replace the caliper onto the rotor and tighten. Then pump the brake pedal with the engine OFF.

saw your other post and thought you just let it go for 2 years.
did they change the rotors? an imperfection in the rotor can cause it to make a noise, you would think that the first mechanic would have changed out the rotors and pads to rule it out, i doubt it would be the caliper because it is not close enough, did they check the bearing and axle?

The 2009 Ford Focus seems difficult to install the non-caliper side brake disk due to integral springs on the pad steel backing. Looks like the outer cage of the brake, the part that straddles the rotor, needs to be removed for pad installation, then reassembled onto the caliper system with brake pads installed. Haven't attepmted this yet, but it appears to be the only alternative given geometric constraints. This is a lot more difficult than other front disk brake systems where the pads virtually slip right into place.

Front or rear brakes? The fronts are normal disc brakes, but the rears are drum. Basically, this means the fronts are super simple to swap out pads, but the rears... not so much.

For the fronts:
1) Secure the car. Park, Parking brake, chocks behind the rear wheels. (Unless you use a lift)
2) Break loose the lug nuts. (Do NOT remove them yet. ONLY break the torque on them.)
3) Jack the front of the car up. Alternatively, use a lift.
4) Remove wheels.
NOTE: Do NOT EVER disconnect the hose going to the calipers. Doing this, even for a moment, will require a full bleed of the break system. Failure to correctly bleed the air from the system will result in having either uneven breaking, NO breaks, or somewhere in between.
5) On the inboard side of the caliper there should be two bolts. (On some models the caliper itself has the bolts and you can remove one and service it without having to remove the assembly.) If needed, remove the assembly from the hub by removing the two bolts. Try not to kink/damage/be too rough on the brake hose. Securing it with a ziptie, string, or wire is a good idea.
6) You should now be able to simply remove the old pads from the calipers.
7) Put the new pads into the calipers and reassemble. It's a good idea to put some medium strength lock-tite on the bolts to help prevent them from backing out. Make sure these two bolts are torqued down securely as if they back off the caliper could come off while driving.
8) After installing new pads there may not be enough clearance to accommodate the rotor. You will need to very carefully retract the pistons back inside the caliper to get this clearance back. It will NOT be easy/quick, but be careful so as not to damage the piston.
9) Best practices dictate you should at a minimum have the rotors "turned" or simply replaced EVERY time you replace the brake pads. Doing this will help ensure maximum stopping power and longevity of both rotor & pad.
10) Once everything is back together and the car is on the ground follow the pad manufacturers "bedding" instructions.

If you are wanting to service the rears... that's another (much more complex and involved) matter. :(

makes no sense other than maybe the anti lock system is messing up

use a large c-clamp to bottom out the caliper pistons remove the caliper bolts .slip out the pads and remove the caliper from the disk
hang the caliper from a coathanger wire to avoid damaging the brakeline after replacement of the pads;brake bleeding is not needed Rotors are held on to the axle like a wheel; with bolts

Installation

1. CAUTION: If the caliper piston is retracted into the housing, brake fluid will be displaced from the master cylinder.
   Fully retract the caliper piston.

1. CAUTION: Make sure the brake disc faces are clean before installation.
   Install the inner brake pad.

1. CAUTION: Make sure the brake disc faces are clean before installation.
   

2. Fully retract the caliper piston

3. Install the outer brake pad.

1. Push the outer retaining clip over the spring retaining lugs.

1. Install the caliper.
   1. Install the bolts.
   1. Install the bolt covers.

1. Install the brake hose onto the support bracket.

1. Locate the outer pad retaining clip.

1. Install the wheels.

1. Check the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir.

Hello, hope this info helps...(subytech1)...



REMOVAL
15-INCH TYPE

1. Lift-up the vehicle, and remove the front wheels.

1. Remove the caliper body and the support from housing, and suspend it from strut using a wire.

1. Remove the disc rotor. NOTE: If the disc rotor seizes up within hub, drive the disc rotor out by pushing with an 8 mm bolt in holes B on the rotor.
2. Clean mud and foreign particles from the caliper body assembly and the support. 16-INCH TYPE Refer to 15-inch type. 17-INCH TYPE Refer to 15-inch type.

INSTALLATION

1. Install the disc rotor.
2. Install the caliper body and the support to housing. Tightening torque: 80 Nm (8.2 kgf-m, 59 ft. lbs.)
3. Install the front wheels.

Sounds like it was pulling before the brake job...if so the only thing you didn't replace was the rotors, I assume you turned them? and did you see hard spots on the rotor? discolored area that didn't cut the same......switch the rotors left to right and see if the problem moves or just replace them if they've been cut twice.

The binding of the brakes is causing the pads to overheat, which is causing the smoke. You need pull the wheel and check things out. Your caliper must be bad (not releasing). You need to replace the caliper, brake pads, and have the rotor cut (a full service parts store or shop cuts the rotor perfectly smooth on both sides), or replaced (it may be cheaper to just buy a new rotor). You should also always change the pads (and check everything else) on the opposite side. So, if u do the brakes on the driver side front, always do the front pass. side at the same time, likewise if u do rear brakes.
Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines (by bleeding the brakes) until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. Old brake fluid is the #1 reason for caliper failure. I've seen many times people replace brake components w/out changing the brake fluid, only to have the brakes wear out very quickly, or not function properly. good luck! hope this helps> please rate this!couontrycurt0