20 degrees on most cars is max turning angle
noise could be from a power steering pump under load
Take it to a steering specialist shop as there are other possible reasons for the problem
SOURCE: 1998 NISSAN ALTIMA FRONT END NOISE / RT SIDE GRINDING NOISE,.... BEARING?
CV joint has gotten debris and moisture inside. The CV boot is bad and not protecting the joint. Now its metal on metal grinding. This happens when turning as there is more pressure on the joint. Please fix this ASAP as it can be dangerous to drive on a bad CV joint. While I have seen people drive with a bad CV joint for over 4k miles, it is NOT recommended!
SOURCE: right front wheel grinding noise
The Hub Bearing is shot jack up that side and grab the top and bottom of the tire if you can move it in and out get it replaced.
SOURCE: Hear a grinding noise from the right front wheel
You should definitely pull the front wheel and check the bearings (they are roller bearings, not ball bearings). With the wheel off, you should be able to isolate where the noise is coming from, but I vote for the bearings. Check, replace and/or repack, and adjust properly. If you have noise, you should be able to feel the "play" in the bearings, or see the wear problem on the spindle and bearings. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: I have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe making a grinding noise
On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.
When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12
volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it
conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.
Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the
front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the
front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it
does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power
feed to the transfer case.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated
by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift
fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the
passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.
GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a
heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer,
and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.
Good
luck. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all
of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before
replacing any parts. The actuator may not be fully engaged or disengaged and the fork to the spline may be what is causing the grinding.
88-UP C/K ACTUATOR UPGRADE
VEHICLE SERVICED: 1994 CHEVROLET FULL SIZE
PURPOSE: IMPROVE AXLE CONNECT ENGAGEMENT TIME
AND
COMPONENT RELIABILITY.
SYMPTOMS: NO FRONT DRIVE AXLE ENGAGEMENT WHEN SHIFTED
INTO 4X4.
If the grinding is only when you apply the brakes, then it's going to be replacing the break pads and rotors and may be the brake caliper if it's damaged from the worn out brake pads. Please keep me posted, be glad to know you got your Tahoe running 100%
SOURCE: my 2006 Ford F-150 has a grinding noise in the
Sounds like you have a IWE that the gears are ground down, or a bad vacuum line to that side.
This could have been caused by the IWE ( Integrated Wheel End ) solenoid ) TSB :
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/file_tsb06_08_15.pdf
You can check the vacuum line with a vacuum pump and gauge tester, just to be sure, but considering it is grinding while in 4WD, I would say the IWE needs to be replaced on that side. Maybe change the IWE solenoid while you are doing the work ( it will be a rounding error on the total cost )
118 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×