Not easy to diagnose. Most probable cause is an intermittent short in the power wiring between the hazard module under the dash and the brake and center stop lights, or a problem with either that module or brake light switch on the pedal. I would start by inspecting the socket wiring and interior of the sockets on the rear light modules.
SOURCE: Tail lights don't work on 1998 Chevy Silverado.
check the wiring from the tailights back to the fuse panel, it sounds like an open connection. if i recall correctly check under the dash on the drivers side near the fuse panel for a bunch of wires in a bundle and look carefully for a wire or two that are cut/shorted/or seperated, you can also check under the drivers side kick panel by the hood release.
SOURCE: A/C compressor won't engage
have you had you freon checked?? there is a safety on that compressor if your system gets to low it will not allow the unit to run.. irongod
SOURCE: Fuse for trailer right turn signal and brake blows intermittently
abad ground on that tail light unit could affect current load when turn and stop are used simultaneously. Although one side only is affected make sure of good grnd between trailer and tow vehicle. focust on the tail light unit in question. Replace the bulb. though rare, bulbs have been known to be the problem. If the bulb is breaking filiments ck the filiment orientation. filiments last longer in vertical orientation, where horizontal permits vibration to break the heated filiment when brake is applied.. good luck and let me know if This helped or not.
SOURCE: 2005 Chevy Colorado 2wd Brake Light Problems plz help!!
check the ground from the rear lights...
SOURCE: 2003 suburban
Hello
The most common reason for this fuse to blow is a shorted electric fuel pump inside the fuel tanks that goes to the pump. PCM B powers the fuel pump circuit and the Engine control computer, the computer is called the "PCM" which is acronym for "Powertrain Control Module". The 1st thing that you should do remove the fuel pump relay under the hood in the relay and fuse center, it is marked as the Fuel pump with this acronym "F/PMP", reinstall the fuse and if it doesn't blow then then move on to the fuel pump connector at the top of the fuel pump plate on the top of the fuel pump at the top of the fuel tank and with the fuel pump connector pulled off see if the PFCM B fuse blows, if it doesn't then the electric fuel pump inside the fuel tank is defective/shorted. Also check the fuel pump connector and verify it doesn't look discoloured as they have been know to overheat when the fuel starts to fail. If the fuel pump is the problem you must drop the fuel tank out of the truck to change the fuel pump. The electrical tests are a must as the new fuel pump is about $300.00 and just throwing one in there and hoping it fixes the problem can be costly mistake as you can't return this type of part. I strongly suggest that you have an expert look at this at a trustworthy repair center that does electrical testing, of course a dealer would be the best choice here.
IS THIS THE FUSE THAT IS BLOWING? ERLS FUSE?THE KEY WILL FEEL A LITTLE WARM AFTER LONG TIME.YOU WILL NEED TO CHECK EACH ONE OF THESE CIRCUITS TO DETERMINE PROBLEM
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