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Anonymous Posted on May 15, 2017

I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 Extended Cab 4x4. My question is that when the truck is parked & not running with no keys in the ignition , my brake lights will begin to flash on & off until it drains my battery. Was told it was my stoplight switch at the brake pedal. Have replaced the stoplight switch 3 times & it only fixes the problem for a short time until the brake lights start flashing again. Can anyone help me find & fix this problem so I don't have to keep replacing the stoplight switch every few days?

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Stephen Q (Q)

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  • Posted on Nov 14, 2022
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It bothers me that the brake lights are flashing. It really sounds like the stoplights and the turn signal circuit is shorted together. Try removing the turn signal flasher see if the problem still exists. This is a hard one, be a lot easier if I could be hands on. But the flasher is the only thing that I can imagine would make the brake lights flash. You might be sure to thoroughly check the ground circuit at the tail lights to make sure they are grounding properly. If not then the brake lights could be grounding back through the turn signal circuit. Too, make sure the wires are not shorting through one another. It sounds like there may be something shorting up under the dash that you are disturbing when you change the brake switch, then after driving the wires end up together again. I doubt to the extreme that it's numerous faulty brake switches.

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  • Chevrolet Master 15,575 Answers
  • Posted on May 15, 2017
Jeff Armer
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Stop lamp circuit discription

Stop Lamps
The STOP LP 25-amp fuse in the underhood fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the normally open stop lamp switch. When the driver presses the brake pedal, the switch contacts close and battery positive voltage is supplied to both the STOP 15-amp fuse and the center high mounted stop lamp (CHMSL) 10-amp fuse in the instrument panel (I/P) fuse block, and to the turn signal/hazard module. The turn signal/hazard module then supplies voltage to both of the trailer rear turn/stop lamp supply voltage circuits. The voltage from the CHMSL 10-amp fuse is to the CHMSL and the trailer jumper harness. The voltage from the STOP 15-amp fuse is to the stop lamps, throttle actuator control (TAC) module, and the cruise control.

I think The turn signal/hazard module has something to do with the lights flashing .From looking at a wiring diagram B+ voltage from the STOP LP fuse 25amp in the under hood fuse box supply's the brake light switch , from there it feeds B+ to VEH STOP fuse 15amp and VEH CHMSL fuse 10amp an to stop lamp switch signal to the turn signal flasher module which is suppose to control the trailer stop lights . Do you have a connection for a trailer hook up ?
Remove both LT an RT TRLR fuse's both 10 amp from the I/P fuse block an see if the problem goes away .

Do you tow a trailer ? Check the trailer connector for corrosion !

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 16, 2008

SOURCE: Left turn signal does not blink properly.

More than likely it is going to be your clock spring behind the steering wheel.

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Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 23, 2009

SOURCE: brake lights

Check the brake switch adjustment first. If it is ok it's probably your turn signal switch. The brake lights run through this switch and if the contacts in it are bad the brake lights will either not work at all or will work sometime.

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 27, 2009

SOURCE: My 01 chevy silverado 1500 won't start MOST of the time.

There is a clutch safety switch under the dash. When you press the clutch it presses the switch. You might try replacing that and see if that fixes your problem. This would cause it not to start and everything would still come on.

Anonymous

  • 164 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 27, 2009

SOURCE: 1993 chevy silverado 4x4 4.3 4sp. clutch issue

somthing is leaaking down then from what your desribing. probably the slave is it leaking fluid into the bellhousing?? these do trap air badly too because the bleeder is on the rear of the slave and it runs down hill with the drive train. jack the rear of truck as high as possible to get the air to rise to bleeder and bleed again

Rickygittins

Ricky Gittins

  • 715 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 03, 2009

SOURCE: Why the 1500 silverado does run good but stalls

If it is your security system you might want this, and please rate your mechanics help, Have a good day.


GM Passlock I & II Information

Please study the following information carefully WHEN INSTALLING REMOTE START systems on a 1996 or later GM car or truck.
Introduced in 1996, GM has changed the VATS anti theft system to Pass-Lock system. This is a similar device to the VATS system, in that there is a resistor present during the start cycle. However, in the PASSLOCK system, the resistor has been placed inside the ignition switch, instead of the key. See the GM V.A.T.S page for more information.
To remotely start a car with this feature, you must bypass the PASSLOCK system. There are two methods of doing so.. The first, is to permanently bypass this system. This is the easiest method for accomplishing your task. The second way, is to temporarily bypass the PASSLOCK, by introducing relays into the system, which retain all of the features of the system, while allowing your remotes start module to bypass it automatically during a remote start cycle.
Vehicles effected
(1996 and newer): N & J body cars, such as
Pontiac Sunfire and GrandAm Passlock-1
Chevrolet Cavalier Passlock-1
Buick Skylark Passlock-1
Oldsmobile Achieva Passlock-1

1997 or newer
Chevrolet Malibu Passlock-II
Oldsmobile Cutlass Passlock-II

1998 or newer
All trucks , SUVs and Vans Passlock-II

It is important to pay special attention to the fact that there are many different ways of achieving the same goal. There are actually 2 different Passlock-II systems. On the next page, there are tests to establish which type of passlock-II your car has.

Relays shown are standard automotive 5 pin spdt relays, available from IEI.
A multi meter is required to measure the resistance values. Accuracy is important within 5%.

Once the value of the resistor is measured, a resistor of the same value +/-5% must be purchased (Radio Shack, for example). You can also use a Potentiometer (POT), which can be adjusted to the same value of the resistor in the ignition switch.

pslc1.gif Passlock-I bypass procedure....

1: Remove the top and bottom shrouds from the steering column.
2: Find the 3 wire ribbon cable, coming from the ignition switch, containing White, Black, Yellow (Sometimes White, Black, Black). These are THIN wires.
3: Locate the Black 6 position connector on the LEFT side of the steering column, right above the ignition switch position. There is a BLACK (Thin) wire in this connector, called "Bulb Test", which shows Ground with ignition in the Off position, OPEN in the "Run" position, and GROUND in the "Crank" position.
4: Turn the ignition switch to the "Run" position. Do not crank the car.
5: Cut the Thin Yellow wire and strip both ends.
6: Without cutting the Black wire, expose some of the copper.
7: Using the ohmmeter, measure from the Yellow wire (the end coming from the ignition switch), to the exposed Black wire and record the value. Measure more than once to assure you have the right value.
8: Acquire the same size resistor and 3 relays, and perform the connections shown in the diagram below.

pslk2.gif PASSLOCK-II bypass procedure

There are 2 types of Passlock-II systems. To determine which system you have, follow these instructions;

1: Locate two wires, which are THIN and are in the main ignition harness.. Orange/Black (or Black) and Yellow.
2: Cut the Yellow wire, and strip back some of the insulation from the Orange/Black (Or Black) wires.
3: Turn the ignition to the "Run" position ( don't crank the starter). Measure and record the value measured from the KEY SIDE of the Yellow wire, to the Black/Orange wire.
4: Turn the key to the "Crank" position and release. Now read the value again.
pslk3.gif5: If the value changed, follow "Method#1". If the value stayed the same, follow "Method#2".







These diagrams are from our friends at ALARMTEK AUTO ALARM

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