How much ATF needed after changing filter and fluid. After changing transmission wont change

You ned to be absolutely sure that the transmission shop used the PROPER ATF fluid! since Chrysler needs Chrysler ATF+3 fluid to behave properly. ATF+4 is a newer fluid and can be used if ATF+3 isn't available. Plus, you need to be certain the shop really changed the whole contents of old fluid, since about 45% of it is inside the torque converter, requiring a complete FLUSHING, not only replacing the 5 quarts from the tranmission pan. That is about 9 quarts in all.

It is very important to change the filter in the pan, at the valve body, even if you have an inline magnetic filter for the ATF and I will tell you why.

My transmission mechanic Gaby, at Jul's Transmission in Hollywood, Ca. showed me last week a 2005 Ford Expedition 4wd automatic transmission's pan filter that was completely plugged/blocked, where the owner had installed an aftermarket drain plug in the transmission oil pan so that he could do regular ATF fluid changes to keep his transmission running longer.

He did not drop the transmission pan and change the filter inside at anytime. All he did was kill his ******* sooner by having a plugged up pan filter and the valve body was heavily layered in wear materials from the transmission.... His transmission crapped out at 38,000 miles. His FORD dealer had warned him that prior to installing the drain plug in his transmission oil pan, that his warranty was void on the transmission if he did that.

You're absolutely right about keeping ATF fluid clean and that inline magnetic filter for the transmission from BOSS products sounds like a great idea! I am planning to check it out and install one on my newly rebuilt 4R55E 2wd transmission. Thanks for the tip! :-)

Change the ATF fluid and pan filter and put on a new pan gasket once a year/12,000 miles. If you have a 4x4 (4WD) and do alot of offroading or if you do a lot of towing with your 4x2 (2WD) you should check your ATF even sooner and change as necessary due to it being burned or a high content of worn materials (friction material, metal, etc.) suspended in the ATF oil.

The filter in the pan mounts right at the valve body and also there is a magnet in the pan itself. That is another reason to once a year (or as driving conditions warrant) drop the pan and change the filter and clean the pan magnet.


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Yes, that is one possibility. You will need a computer scan tool to check to see if you have a fault code relating to the shift solenoids. Other possibilities are physically damaged internal parts. [Is the transmission fluid discolored? It should be bright red. Does it smell burnt? [like burnt cork] How many miles are on this vehicle? When was the last time the ATF and transmission filter were changed? {Yeah, I hear you thinking "You mean I actually have to change that stuff?] Number one cause of transmission problems is lack of owner maintenance [stupid owner disease] If you have over 80,000 miles on the car and have never changed the fluid and filter, that might be the cause of the problem. The fluid breaks down and causes "gum" deposits to build up in the valve body. These deposits cause the valves to "stick". If this is the case [fluid will be dark red, gray or straw colored, but not smell bad] you might be able to fix your problem by flushing ALL the old fluid out, changing the oil transmission oil filter and cleaning the oil pan and the magnet inside the pan.
Forget those "quick oil change" places that "claim" they can change the fluid by inserting a suction probe down the dip stick tube. That is a half a$$ solution. You need to drop the oil pan, clean it, change the oil filter [accessible once the pan is removed] and fill the system with clean ATF. You are NOT done yet. You still have about 5 or 6 quarts of badly contaminated ATF left in the torque converter and the oil cooler. To remove that fluid you need to remove one of the two rubber hoses which connects the oil cooler [part of the radiator] to the transmission. Attach rubber hoses to both ends of the disconnected hose and the fitting on the radiator [because you don't know which way the ATF will flow] Place both free ends in a 5 gallon bucket.
Have additional ATF ready [generally you will need an entire case of ATF for the whole job]. Have an assistant start the car's engine. That nasty, dirty fluid from the torque converter will now flow out of the free ends of the rubber hoses [1 of them] into the bucket. Pour more ATF into the dip stick tube as the engine runs. Monitor the color of the ATF going into the bucket. When it starts to come out clean [just like the new fluid] shut the engine off. Re-attach the cooler hose. Start the engine and add fluid as needed to bring it up to the proper level. Now road test the car. After the road test, double check the fluid level [it will go down, due to air pockets in the trans] and re-fill to the proper level.
Charlie

Yes it's Dex/Merc III and change filter when you change fluid.

Why was fluid changed? whats Super ATF fluid? the recommended fluid is DEXRON III

If you have recently changed you Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF), the wrong type of fluid may have been put in. Incorrect fluid will cause the transmission to shift poorly. Old or dirty transmission fluid can also cause issues with the designed operation . If you can not remember the last time you changed the ATF or have never changed the ATF, see if an ATF change fixes the issues you are experiencing. Consider having the transmission filter changed also. If you continue to have hard shifting after this there may be more serious problems developing that may have to be dealt with.

To find the correct specification, we need additional information about your 1988 Dodge Truck Ramcharger 4WD 5.2L FI 8cyl:

A999/32RH Transmission model
Transmission Fluid Capacity 4 Quarts
Application:
Fluid and filter change

Transmission Fluid Type 06810
Application:
With automatic transmission
Note :
Castrol ATF +4 ATF


Transmission model A727 or 36RH
4 Quarts
Application:
Fluid and filter change
With lock up

Transmission Fluid Type 29201
Application:
With automatic transmission
Note :
Coastal(R)+4(R)ATF

06810
Application:
With automatic transmission
Note :
Castrol ATF +4 ATF

VV346
Application:
With automatic transmission
Note :
Valvoline ATF+4 Full Synthetic ATF


Lubrication chart for 1985-88 100, 200, 300 4WD



Hope helped (remember rated this post).

First off, did you happen to change the fluid lately and use anything but Honda ATF-Z1. If you did that is your problem. You must use genuine Honda ATF-Z1 or shifting problems will result. Even if you did not use a non Honda fluid, I suggest you have the fluid changed and the transmission flushed. You may end up needing a transmission rebuild but it is worth trying a fluid/filter change first.

You can drain and fill your trans. It will take 2.5 -3.0 quarts of DEX III trans fluid....goes in the fill tube. Or you can get said transmission flushed which changes all fluid including torque converter.....about 15 quarts. Way more thorough.

Fluid can leak out of the driveshaft seals, the input shaft seal, the transmission pan gasket, the torque converter or the ATF cooler and line connections. If the fluid level gets low, the transmission may be slow to engage when it is shifted into drive. Gear shifts may be sloppy or delayed, or the transmission may slip between shifts. If the fluid level is really low, the transmission may cause the vehicle to not go at all.fluid level should be checked when the fluid is hot with the engine idling, the parking brake set and the transmission in Park. If fluid is needed, add only enough ATF to bring the level up to the full mark. Do not overfill because doing so can cause the fluid to become aerated, which may affect transmission operation. If the dipstick reads low, the transmission is probably leaking. So look underneath to see where the fluid is going. If there are no visible leaks, check the radiator for ATF in the coolant. The ATF cooler inside the radiator may be leaking and cross-contaminating the fluids.
You should also check the condition of the fluid. Some discoloration and darkening is normal as the fluid ages, but if the ATF is brown or has a burnt smell, it is badly oxidized and needs to be changed. Varnish on the dipstick is another indication of worn out fluid.
You can also do a "blotter test" to check for worn fluid. Place a few drops of ATF on a paper towel and wait 30 seconds. If the spot is widely dispersed and red or light brown in color, the fluid is in satisfactory condition. But if the spot does not spread out and is dark in color, the ATF is oxidized and should be changed.
Many transmission experts say most transmission problems can be prevented by changing the ATF and filter regularly for preventive maintenance. How often depends on how the vehicle is driven. For some vehicles, this might be every 30,000 miles or two years.
The harder the transmission works, the hotter the fluid runs. The life of the fluid drops quickly once its temperature gets up above about 200 degres F. Installing an aftermarket auxiliary ATF cooler that is parallel to the OEM ATF cooler is recommended to keep fluid temperatures down on vehicles that are used for towing or are driven hard.
ATF also becomes contaminated with normal wear particles from the clutch plates, bushings and gears. The filter will trap most of this debris before it can cause problems. But many older Asian transmissions only have a plastic or metal screen that does little to protect the transmission against internal contaminants and nothing to keep the fluid clean. On these vehicles, changing the fluid is the only way to get rid of these contaminants.
When adding or replacing ATF, use the type specified by the vehicle manufacturer. GM, Ford, Chrysler, Honda, Mercedes and others all have their own specs for ATF. There is no such thing as a "universal" ATF that works in all transmissions. Some fluids meet a variety of specifications, but cannot meet them all because of the different friction additives that are required.
Ford has three automatic transmission fluid specifications: Type F (a non-friction modified formula for most 1964-81 transmissions), Mercon (a friction modified ATF similar to Dexron II for 1988-97 transmissions), and Mercon V (Fords latest friction-modified formula, introduced in 1997).