The breaks drag and the wheels get pretty hot.
How do I know if the master cylinder is going out?
How do I know if the booster is going out.
I press on the breaks before starting, and then the break pedal goes down a bit after starting. Does that mean the booster is ok?
When driving the vehicle slows down and comes to a complete stop without applying the breaks
Help!!
4-wheel disc brakes on 4x4 worked well for 6 yrs - then grinding noise of 'metal on metal'. RR caliper had seized and inside pad wore down to metal. Intalled new pads on both rear wheels, used c-clamp to slowly compress pistons - no apparent problems during replacement... Now, when driving, the rear brakes drag and both the rear discs get smoking hot, so much so that the vehicle slows down and comes to a complete stop without applying the brakes. Front pads are fine - discs are cool to touch. The brake fluid resevoir level is half an inch higher now than before the pad change - attributed that to pistons not being extended at far with new pads. Did not open any bleed valves or add/remove any brake fluid. No visible fluid leaks anywhere. Don't have the common rusted brake-lines issue. Can't figure out how to get the pressure to release on the rear pistons.
It sounds like the rear calipers are bad. Raise the rear wheels and see if you can turn the tires. If you can't, open the bleeder. If you still can't replace the caliper. If you can turn the wheel after you open the bleeder, replace the brake hose to that wheel.
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Take the truck to a professional and have the rear brake pads, rotors, calipers and brake fluid replaced. You should not be doing this work yourself. You are not qualified. I am not saying this to be mean, just safe and sensible. You have probably wasted more fuel because of this problem than the proper repair would have cost.
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