Replaceing the oil pan

One issue you may run into, when you go to pull down the oil pan, you need to remove the starter, there are 3 bolts directly above it. Another is you may need to improvise like I did to replace the oil pump on my 89'. The oil won't come down very easily because of the transmission pan, the a/c compressor, and the frame connecting to the radiator support. So what I did was put you car up on ramps, take down the starter, the plastic flywheel cover, and unbolt the 2 17mm bolts to the radiator support on the passenger side, then gently pry the beam down and the oil pan should be able to be removed easily.

It's in the sump,remove sump jack up motor to gain removal of sump pan.

Take the oil pan off, and it will be sitting there staring you in the face. Look at the replacement and see where the bolts are that hold the pump on. Remove them, take old pump out, put new one on. DO not overtighten the bolts. not a tough job, but very messy. Best to let the oil drain overnight after oil pan is removed. You will also need anew oil pan gasket

Nope, that's pretty much it, make sure the slot that the distributor fits into is lined up or you wont be able to get it all the way in without bending something.

Remove the engine front cover then drain the engine oil and take out the oil pan. It is under the engine and looks like the bottom of the motor.
Unscrew the oil pump mounting bolts with a wrench and proceed to remove the oil pump itself by pulling it down and out of the engine. Avoid getting any contaminants into the oil pump assembly while removing.
Add fresh oil to the new pump to prime it. Check the alignment on the new oil pump drive with the crankshaft/intermediate crankshaft timing.

Step 2 Install the new pump carefully, rotating it back and forth a little to make sure it has full surface contact between the pump and the engine block.

Step 3 Hold the pump in its sealed position and put in the pump mounting bolts, tightening them to 15 ft-lb.

Step 4 Put the engine oil pan back in and refill the crankcase. Start the engine and check for leaks on the parts you replaced

Bearings are located at each "big end" of every connecting rod (the rod that connects each piston to the crankshaft and at each crank support (part of the engine block) To measure wear on a bearing you need something called "plastigage" which is placed betweenthe bearing surface and the crank, the cap re-torqued then removed. You then measure the spread of the gauge material with a micrometer. If you remove any bearing and see brass backing instead of bearing material, you don't need to measure it...It is gone.You need to check all the bearings in this manner. If any Main bearings are worn, the engine needs to be removed as that is the ONLY correct way to replace them without having another immediate failure.
I'm not saying this to be insulting, but if you need to ask where the bearings are, it is likely you should not be doing this work. Though it appears to be a "take out, put in" operation, it takes experience and skill not only to do the job correctly but to recognize things inside that can bite you in the **** if they are not taken care of.
One other item....If you don't understand this answer do not rate it.
I only am a beginner (40 years in repair, many spent building 7,000 hp race engines) so, I'm not very sure about the answer (if you believe that, monkeys will fly tomorrow!!!) We do this free and really don't need a poor rating for a perfectly good answer!!!
Good luck!

drain the oil, remove the pan peel off old seal replace with new seal in pan and put the pan back on thighten down and refill to manufacturer seting for oil

pull the vehicle on ramps or put on jack stands. set the emergency brake pull off flywheel cover if there is one remove all the bolts from pan and drop it down might catch on oil pump. pull off old gasket and replace with new one

The oil pan is at the bottom of the engine. You might have the exhaust in the way, in which case you need a helper so that you can remove the exhast from the engine and take the entire pipe from the vehicle. From there, make sure you drain all the old oil from the engine and pan. Unthread all the bolts that surround the old oil pan gasket (you may have to remove the starter motor to gain access to a few bolts). Lower the pan carefully off the engine block (the oil pump and oil filter screen are within the oil pan. You want to make sure not to damage these componets or the baffle inside the oil pan). Your new gasket may have four retainers-especially if it's a Felpro gasket. These retainers go into the corners of the engine block mating surface for the oil pan. Slide your gasket up onto the retainers and engine block, then put your oil pan onto it (the retainers will hold it loosely in place. Put all the bolts but the four corners into the engine block. Remove the retainers and replace the bolts. Reconnect the exhaust pipe. Fill engine with oil, run, and check for leaks.

if there is enough clearance to remove the old pan without doing any damage to the oil pump and feed tube.... that's fine but make sure you don't bend or damage it.