At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
My first mistake was assuming it was a bad fuel pump. I've replaced the fuel pump and no go. Them as I was checking things out I discovered that there is no voltage to fuel pump fuse or fuel pump relay. I've been unable to obtain wiring information to determine source for voltage for fuel system.My first mistake was assuming it was a bad fuel pump. I've replaced the fuel pump and no go. Them as I was checking things out I discovered that there is no voltage to fuel pump fuse or fuel pump relay. I've been unable to obtain wiring information to determine source for voltage for fuel system.
Found the problem, turns out there was some bad wiring under the engine compartment fuse box. The wire insulation was so brittle that it had cracks in several places. Must have been shorting out and blew the DRL fuse and it turns out that it is also the ingnition fuse as well.
Thanks for the help!Found the problem, turns out there was some bad wiring under the engine compartment fuse box. The wire insulation was so brittle that it had cracks in several places. Must have been shorting out and blew the DRL fuse and it turns out that it is also the ingnition fuse as well.
Thanks for the help!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Does the battery have a full charge, battery connections all clean and tight?
With engine cranking, the vehicle systems get battery voltage. With engine running, it gets alternator voltage, there can be several volt difference.
With everything off use digital multimeter across battery posts, the generic spec for a full charge is 12.6 volts. Leave the leads on the battery posts, have a helper crank it, the voltage shouldn't drop below 9.6 volts, that is a generic spec.
The next test, w/o jumpers, have a helper crank it while you check spark at the plugs--check proper fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse. Any applicable trouble codes?
You don't need a repair manual if you know the basic's of automotive repair . You just need wiring diagrams an fuse box layouts . You can find those here free http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model ,engine ! Under system click on electrical distribution .Then under subsystem click on fuse panel . Click the search button then the first blue link . This shows relay positions in the under hood fuse box. The PCM power relay supply's B+ voltage to the fuel pump relay , PCM - engine computer ,mass air flow sensor an someother thing's .
It sounds more like the fuel pump to me, if you don't hear the pump when you turn the ignition to the on position, that's the problem, check to make sure the fuse and the fuel pump relay are still good before you change the pump.
If it acts like it's starved for fuel, it probably is related to that. I would check first though. If you have a carb, you can spray starter fluid inside and then crank it. If it tried to start, then it is fuel related. Probably a fuel pump, fuel filter, or fuel relay, or perhaps a fuse. If it doesn't start for a second, it could be many more things. If so, you should check your ignition system, spark plugs, wires, distributor, coils, ect. If your battery and starter are fine, start looking to see if your car is getting fuel. Hope this helps. Being broke down sucks!
The most common failed start is ignition spark, usually forgot to hook it up, this is controlled by the ignition module and the crank sensor, second most common is fuel. Has your mechanic fixed it yet? if not check the three basics- air-fuel-fire, one them is missing.
without seeing it here is my best answere, do you have the ability to pull codes if the cam and crank sensors are functioning properly ( no codes for them) i would then check the fuel pump fuse and relay . do you have fuel getting to the fuel rail . if u have a guage to check pressure at the fuel rail it should be above 30lbs , if you have no pressure and your fuses and relays are good then you have a pump problem provided you have not been in an accident , i believe that vehicle has a safety shutoff that might be located in the trunk .
My first mistake was assuming it was a bad fuel pump. I've replaced the fuel pump and no go. Them as I was checking things out I discovered that there is no voltage to fuel pump fuse or fuel pump relay. I've been unable to obtain wiring information to determine source for voltage for fuel system.
Found the problem, turns out there was some bad wiring under the engine compartment fuse box. The wire insulation was so brittle that it had cracks in several places. Must have been shorting out and blew the DRL fuse and it turns out that it is also the ingnition fuse as well.
Thanks for the help!
were is the location of the fuel pump of ford contour 1996
×