The real reason is that the ECM is not communicating, i.e. getting a proper voltage reading from the pulsation plate in the coil assy. So, hence the ECM is not letting the injector operate, hence number one cyl will not fire. REPLACE YOUR ECM.
Stevie is on the right track. I see a ton of dead cylinders as well. Try a compression test if the gashet checks out.
OK, it may not be a big problem.
You may have sparks but at random or at the wrong time.
However, most people start to take things apart and looking at timing, coils, injectors, etc.
If you have not touched those things or adjusted things, then get new plugs and new SPARK PLUG WIRES! (assuming it was running OK before)
Almost 80% of these problem relates to spark plug wires and connections to the plugs.
These wires filled with carbon powder and if it's bent sharply then it may have a small 'gap' that still gives you spark but at the wrong time.... due to delay of the spark.
Get new wires... the CHEAPEST one you can find in the part store (Chinese made is OK). Don't fall for dealer of factory spec wires that could cost hundreds!
A $ 20.00 set of wires will work just as well.
You may also check the HEAT RANGE of the plugs.
Here too, get COPPER electrode plugs (cheapest) and don't buy any expensive platinum coated plugs. It will NOT improve anything, in fact many times it's much worse.
Now, you have to change the plugs and wires every 12-18 months to make sure you get the proper timing and gap on the plugs. It saves you much gas but doing this and pays for itself many times in a year. I am speaking from personal experience. Don't bend the wires too sharply and route it in a nice easy curve around the engine.
Replace them ONE-AT-A-TIME!
Injectors:
If one of the injectors delays, you have the issue of missfire as you described.
Do you smell raw gasoline at the tailpipe?
If yes, it may be the injector and or the plug/wire combination.
Do one things first then proceed to do other things.... next.
Injectors can be notoriously bad... even a brand new one.
I have a car with 240,000 miles on it with the ORIGINAL injectors!
Still runs like new (1996 T-Bird)
Caution:
Some engines may require a certain plug sets and can not use substitute.
However, the plugs and wires set is under $50.00 bucks and worth a try anyway first.
Let me know how this worked out :)
cheers
Common problem with these engines is that the intake gasket fails on the number one cylinder. To test get some carburetur cleaner and spray on intake runner where it meets the cylinder head. Should pick up the cylinder and run slightly better. Intake gasket has failed causing your problem. Any ?? shoot back and I will try to help.
3,162 views
Usually answered in minutes!
PLEASE NOTE:I am an ex-mechanic, before the injectors came out. I used to be a drive train specialist. Please use mechanic terms I can understand.
1998 Saturn SL, 1.9Litre. Two former owners. It was a demo. Second owner older woman. Left it sitting for a year, because the engine was running rough and on 3 cylinders.
ORIGINAL PROBLEM: Engine is running rough because number 1 cylinder is not burning fuel. All the gas is going into the oil pan.
MY SOLUTIONS, SO FAR: I changed the injectors.
CURRENT PROBLEM: The engine is still running rough, although the gas no longer spills into the oil pan. The engine will not start on its own.
NOTE: I have spark in all cylinders. When the engine is running and I remove the spark plug wires, the engine runs roughly on number s4, 3, 2, but number 1 is still the same (there is no difference when the wire is removed.)
Now, somebody else told me it could be my coil pack and plates that are supposed to feed the injector and the spark timing together. (I'm not too sure, since I am old school.)
Now, I've been told the intake gasket fails on the number one cylinder and I should spray carburater cleaner to make it run slightly better. If I do that, what do I change? Do I change the intake manifold gasket and my problem should be solved? Because I just purchased a second hand engine from the scrapyard and if I don't need it, I prefer to return it. The former owner (older lady) only drove short distances. Body is in perfect condition. The lady says it happened from one day to the next. When you start the car and rev the engine, it backfires.
Please help. I need your assistance desperately as the car has been sitting in my driveway for a month now, and I just towed it. The mechanic is waiting for my instructions. I need to save money and he doesn't have much experience with these types of cars.
I have a toyota corolla wagon '94, it sounds its running on three cylinders, it drives rough in fourth gear and when pulling a trailer. Also when a cold start it idles bit rough, for the rest it drives fine in all gears and when at speed in fifth gear. I only changed the parkplugs and fuel filter, should I check my wires too and what is the best way to do this before I bring it away and let someone fix my valves.
×