I have front brakes but no pressure to rear brakes. If I remove line off master cylinder for rear brakes and plug line hole, I get a full pedal with two pumps.

Best case scenario bad vacuum pressure to the brake booster. Worst case bad abs control module or valve body/motor the abs system works by add and removing hydraulic pressure through valves and electric motor. Try using block off plugs at the master cylinder( remove lines plug outlets at master cylinder) check if brake pedal position and pressure is good(if there is no change problem is master cylinder or brake booster/ vacuum) if plugging at master cylinder solved issue repeat procedure at abs valve body after reinstalling lines from master cylinder if your problem returns your issue is in the abs valve body if plugging at the abs solves problem reconnect at the valve body bleed each line one by one testing between each line until you find the problem

Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ?
It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only.
Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?

PRESSURE BLEEDING

MANUAL BLEEDING

Print
For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.

MASTER CYLINDER

See Figure 1
If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.

Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.

MANUAL BLEEDING

See Figure 2
Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

Hi, bleeding your rear brakes with engine running, you should get enough pressure out of the lines to squirt 3-4 feet. In other words, good pressure. If all you get is a trickle, you probably have a bad master cylinder. Just because its full of fluid, does not mean the seals arent shot. If you have bled them in order, left rear,right rear,left front,right fornt and have bled them enough to get fresh fluid out of each one without achieving good solid pressure at all wheels, replace your master cylinder. There is a proportioning valve, but usually it will affect only one wheel when going out, usually the left rear.
Brake pedal height comes from the rear brakes, so if you have bad pressure there, you will never get a good pedal. Eventually with a bad master, your brakes will go completly out..Mike

Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System 1992 Festiva Workshop Manual GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS Manual Bleeding

1. Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.

1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.

1. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid. During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
   

1. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
   

1. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.

1. Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.

1. Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting. The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
   

1. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.

1. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.

1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.

1. Close the bleeder fitting.

1. Have the assistant release the brake pedal.

1. Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.

1. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.

1. Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.

1. Check the master cylinder fluid level. If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
   

1. Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.

Start with brake in the rear that is the farthest away from the master cylinder ( if your master cylinder is on drivers side start with passenger rear,pump up brake pedal until hard have someone else open bleeder valve until air or fluid squirts out,while holding brake pressure even if goes to the floor dont release pedal until bleeder valve is tightened or you will **** air back into the line,do this several times making sure you get a full stream of brake fluid and no air,continue to other rear wheel and then proceed to front wheel furthest from master cylinderand then final wheel. if you still don't have brakes change master cylinder and bleed all brakes again.

Remove the back wheel that is locking up.Usually what causes them to lock up is that there is brake fluid all over the shoe.Check the rear brake cylinders.Also check the lines real good.Also make sure your anti lock brakes are not activating when going slow and turning corners.This will make the brake pedal go to the floor also.Hope this helps.Good luck.

There are two solutions offered here. Please read them both before starting.

1. Find a helper. Take the brake lines back off the master cylinder. Make sure the fluid reservoir is full. wearing safety glasses and rubber gloves press your thumbs on the holes in the master cylinder where the lines hook up. Have your helper push the brake pedal down. Keep doing this until the fluid pressure moves your thumbs away from the master cylinder and squirts out of both the front and rear holes. Work with your helper to hook up the lines without loosing the fluid in the master cylinder. Check the fluid in the master and fill it up. DO NOT ASSUME YOU HAVE BRAKES. Test the brakes carefully. If they are still spongy you have to bleed the lines at the wheels. Start with the longest line and work to the shortest. Bleed all four one at a time until you have a steady stream of fluid coming out when the pedal is pushed. Then carefully test the brakes. If the pedal is good you can drive the vehicle.

2. If you can't find a helper or are worried about fluid squirting around the shop you can do the same thing by making two short lines for the front and rear master cylinder openings and submerging the lines in a pan of fluid. Pump the brakes until no air bubbles up in the fluid and fasten the lines as per above. once again DO NOT ASSUME THAT YOU HAVE BRAKES UNTIL YOU CAREFULLY TEST THEM. Bleed the lines as described above if you are not happy with the pedal feel. Good Luck.

Here's all the tricks for bleeding brakes that I've got:
1. keep the master cylinder FULL.. check it often. if you **** air into the lines, you're going to need to start all over... so keep it full.
2. Have a assistant pump the brake pedal and hold pressure- when you open the bleeder screws at the wheels, the pedal will drop. Make sure the assistant doesn't let off the pedal until you get that bleeder shut again. Then he can repressurize again (keep an eye on your fluid level).
3. Start at the farthest wheel. then work to the closest to the master cylinder.
4. Then refill the fluid as needed.
5. You may need to "center" the brake lite (dash indicator) you can do this by having the assistant hold pressure while you bleed the line at the master cylinder (quick and abrupt) you may have to do the front or the rear line (on the master cylinder).
Good luck...hope this aolves your issue..
k

that would be brake fluid leaking you have a broken line..