Electric windows do not work

Doesn't have fuse for power windows . Has circuit breaker ,
System circuit breaker (POWER WDWS Circuit Breaker 30A )
Those rarely go bad .
Power Windows System Components
The power window system consists of the following components:
• Window master switch
• Front passenger window switch
• LR window switch
• RR window switch
• Window motors in each of the doors
• System circuit breaker (POWER WDWS Circuit Breaker 30A)
Power Windows System Controls
The power windows system can be controlled by a power window up or down switch activation.
Driver Window Operation
When the ignition switch is in the RUN or ACCY position, or retained accessory power (RAP) is enabled and the window master switch is activated to the DOWN position, battery positive voltage is applied to the window motor causing the window to open. When the window master switch is activated to the UP position, battery positive voltage is applied to the window motor in the opposite direction and the window closes.
The window master switch also controls the front passenger, LR, and RR windows.
Express Down Feature
The driver window will travel to the fully down position when the window master switch is pressed past the first detent. Activating the window master switch to the UP position will cancel the express down feature.
Lockout Switch Feature
The window master switch has a lockout switch which disconnects the battery positive voltage to the LR and RR window switches, disabling them.
Individual Window Operation
When the ignition switch is in the RUN or ACCY position, or RAP is enabled and an individual window switch is activated to the DOWN position, battery positive voltage is applied to the window motor causing that window to open. When the individual window switch is activated to the UP position, battery positive voltage is applied to the window motor in the opposite direction causing that window to close.

The only way to find the problem would be to view wiring diagrams an test the electrical circuits with a volt meter .

What 30 amp fuse & what circuit breaker ? Do you know how to view a wiring diagram an use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter to test B+ power & ground circuit's ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on body & accessories , then under subsystem click on power windows . I see a 30 amp fuse F1 located in the smart junction box (inside fuse box) , F47 30 amp fuse same location . F41 15 amp fuse . Don't see any circuit breaker's invloved . Pull the driver door panel an check for B+ power to the driver master switch. Don't just replace fuse's See the tab's on top of the fuse ,test voltage with volt meter . If you don't know how to test automotive electrical circuits , your best bet , take to a qualified repair shop or learn how .

Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know

The most likely cause of your problem is the master switch in the drivers door. The windows and the locks are on two separate circuits. The only part that these two have in common is the master switch.
Of course it is also possible that the wiring harness between the driver side door and cowl is corroded and that some of the pins are to corroded or even broken off and do not make contact. Also check that you have good and tight positive and negative battery cable connection to the battery posts. Wiggle the cables a bit. If it still does not work, pull out and put back fuse #8 and circuit breaker/relay #68. Try wiggling relay #68 it might just not make good contact or is stuck.
Pulling the fuse or breaker cuts the power and resets the circuit. Good Luck and let us know how it is going.

It uses a circuit breaker ,PWRWDWS circuit breaker #35 30A located in the center console fuse block . Now then what seams to be the problem ? Circuit breakers rarely go bad . Do none of your windows work ? Driver's door master switch !

Not a relay or a fuse for the power windows. It's a 20 amp circuit breaker in the Central Junction Box, under the hood. A circuit breaker resets itself if an overload trips it, so that is not likely to be a problem. The windows and the door locks are on separate circuits.

So, do no windows work at all? In that case, it is most often either the master switch on driver's door is at fault, or the power or ground wire to the master switch is broken in the driver's door opening. In the bundle of wires, the black wire is the power windows ground, and it is the ground wire for all the windows, so check it closely. The power wire to the master switch is a light blue with black stripe wire.

See if you can pull out the master switch and its electrical connector, without having to take off the inner door panel. Or if you have to, take off the inner panel, then pull off the connector to the master switch . Now all you need is a voltmeter or test light to check for the power and ground at the connector, with the key in on position. If both are good, the master switch may be defective.

Usually, power windows use a circuit breaker, rather than a fuse, in the fuse panel under the driver's dash.
If any windows work or even make noise, it's not a fuse or circuit breaker problem. If no windows work, pull out the driver's door master switch and check for one hot wire to it with key on. If there is that, the ground for the windows originates at the master switch and runs back into the cabin to a nearby ground. One could check both power and ground with a test light or voltmeter. Check for broken wires in the group of wires entering the door. If either the power wire or the ground wire has broken there, the windows will not work. If both power and ground are good, possibly a bad master switch.

Anything can go bad, but to my knowledge circuit breakers seldom do. If you have a test light, pull the circuit breaker and probe both terminals for a power signal, with the key on. One terminal should show voltage with key on. If not, check the power distribution box for a blown maxi-fuse, or the wiring from that box to your fuse panel.
BTW, no, no relays are in the window circuit. So if the circuit breaker has power to it, put it back in and check for power on the driver's door master switch-one wire on the master should have voltage with key on. If no hot wire to the master switch, check inside the door openings for a broken wire. If you do have one hot wire there. check the power windows ground-the ground wire for the power windows originates at the master switch and goes back into the cabin to a nearby ground. Put one lead of the test light on the hot wire (key on), and probe the ground terminal at the master switch-if your ground is good, the test light will light up. If the ground is lost, no light. Check for a broken ground wire in the door opening, and/or find the ground and see if it is bad. If the master switch has a hot wire and a good ground wire, replace the master switch.

You'll have to get someone to trace the circuits to find the short. You can unplug the master switch in the driver's door and use a circuit breaker in place of the fuse or a fresh fuse.
Toyota door switches have a history of problems. If you disconnect the master switch and the new fuse or circuit breaker does not blow, I would try another switch. You may also have a problem with the wiring harness between the door and the post.
If the new fuse or breaker blows, you will need to disconnect the other motors and switches or look for a short in those circuits.

There is no relay, and there is no fuse for the power window circuit, there is a 30 amp circuit breaker in the fuse panel under the dash and the circuit breaker should be marked WDO on the fuse panel.

First check to see if there is power from the 30 amp circuit breaker to the master window switch on the driver door, and if power is getting through the master window switch.

If there is power to and through the master window switch (use a test light or a power probe would the best tool for the job), then there is most likely a broken wire inside of the weather boot that is between the door and the body of the vehicle, and the wires run in from the door through the inside of the weather boot and then through a hole on the body of the vehicle that is located behind the driver side kick panel, and the wires should be inspected from the wire connector behind the driver side kick panel out to the master window switch on the driver door for any broken wires. If you do find any broken wires be certain that they are soldered back together and do not use wire connectors to repair the wire(s) unless you want to repair the system again in about a month or two.

Here are two wiring diagrams (if the vehicle has rear vent windows then use the upper diagram) of a typical GM power window circuit for that year to help assist you, and let me know if you require any further assistance.

You wont blow a fuse there is only a circuit breaker protecting this circuit sounds like a shorted master switch unfortunately the easiest way to test is to replace with a good switch