Check the gauge when the car is running if the gauge is moving into the red or hot area you may have a clogged thermostat. This occurs when people try to plug up leaks in the radiator by adding solutions that stop clogs. They do stop the leaks in the radiator but they clog the thermostat. Good Luck!!!
If the fan is working and water is circulating, it could be losing pressure. Replace the radiator cap or on some vehicles the coolant refill cap. I had this same issue with a Grand AM.
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Use a garden hose and flush your cooling system (specifically the heater core) to clear out any blockage or buildup. Once the water comes out clear put the hoses back on and refill the radiator and overflow tank with 50/50 Antifreeze and see if you have heat. If not the next thing to check/replace is the heater core itself.
sounds like you might have a problem with your cooling fans not working when you're driving on the expressway you have a constant flow of wind blowing through the radiator which keeps didn't include the Twin Cities dealer idle no airflow no fan blowing the car overheats
Check to see if blower is working by running 12v to it. If that works check if your heat/ac controls are working by looking at the area where the flaps are and turning the knobs/buttons. You should hear the flaps move or see the pins of the flaps turn. See if your heater core is working. Should be hot as coolant from engine passes through it.
what is the level of your antifreeze in the cooling system-heater core can't give off heat if there's no antifreeze running through it-does your car have a temperature gauge-is the temperature normal-is the heater fan running-let me know what you've found-cheers Denny
This sounds like a bad water thermostat or a cooling fan relay stuck on Run. The thermostat should be under the top housing of the motor where the big radiator hose meets the engine.
The other method of cooling a hot motor is the electric fan attached to one side of the Radiator. This fan may run more when the A/C is on, but when you are using the heat it should not run constantly. This fan should be off when the motor is cold.
In some cases the sensor for the fan will make a trouble Code and light the "check engine" light on the dash. You can get a free scan from Autozone or Oreillys.
Once you get heat in the motor your heater should work quicker. If the motor is hot and the heater is not, feel the smaller hoses running from the motor to the Firewall. They are about 5/8 to 3/4 inch diameter hoses. They should be hot with the heater on. If they are hot, and the heater in the car is only warm or cold, you have a ductwork problem under the dash. If the hoses are not hot, you have a flow problem. With the flow problem, either the heater core is plugged or a water valve is not turning on.
I hope my solution has identified the problem and given you a way to trace it. Start with the thermostat, new gasket, and some antifreeze to replace spillage. If you did have a warning light, either disconnect the NEG battery cable for 10 minutes or ask Autozone or Oreillys to clear your car with their scanner. Old error codes will stay in memory for 25-35 Startups if you don't clear them.
The fan only working on high is due to a defective blower motor resistor pack which must be replaced. No heat can be a clogged heater core, defective heater control valve, or thermostat stuck open. On a 8 year old car it is time for a full cooling system service. Drain, flush, replace the thermostat, and refill with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water.
I worked at a Nissan dealer for 18 months and we'd get a lot of these in. The cold heat at idle is accompanied by a sloshing noise from behind the dash - you've got an air pocket in the heater core. What we used to do was lift the front end of the car about 3 feet off the ground using the hoist and take the rad cap off. Then we'd run the engine at a fast idle (jam a screwdiver against the throttle stop to hold it fast or put a slight weight on the pedal if it's Electronic Throttle Body. Run the heater on full heat and the engine like this. You'll see the rad 'burping' as the air in the cooling system travelling to the highest point it can - the open rad cap. Top up with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water as you go. When it burps no more, you have a full cooling system and should not suffer any more "cold heat".
If you do this yourself, PLEASE use jack stands, block the back wheels and put the parking brake on!!!
Over heating can be caused by a faulty thermostat and or weak water pump and dirty radiator and old antifreeze or the radiator fan now working when at idle but should not over heat when driving. Service the cooling system if it has never been serviced before. Replace the thermostat, buy some radiator flush to clean out the radiator and heater core. Just follow the instruction and replace the antifreeze and make sure it's a 50/50 mix water/antifreeze. If you not sure how to mix it 50/50 you can buy them 50/50 premixed. Water boils at 100'C so you need antifreeze mixed with it but antifreeze does not have the same heat transfer as water so you cannot run 100% antifreeze cause it does not transfer heat fast enough and you over heat. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted, Be glad to help, once you service the cooling system and your still over heating, then we look at the water pump.
There are a few things that can cause your car to run hot. Not enought antifreeze is one. It could also be your cooling fan is not working, a colgged heater core, colgged radiator, thermostat is stuck closed, leaky water pump, or coolant temp sending unit. Hope this helps.
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