While I can't answer your question, I would like to say
that common sense, tells you that after you replace the
dist one time only ,you need to find out what failed down
to the component ,& then you may have your answer
I have never in 50 years replaced a dist
I have had parts inside fail,pulled it after I diagnosed the
most logical part to fail & replaced just the failed part
A wiring diagram just of the ignition system would be a
good place to start,you also need a volt meter & the ability
to use it,or your off the a repair shop
On a vehicle that old I would be checking ALL wires for corrosion & ALL ground wires I could find. Remove every wire you can get at & clean the terminals. Then start some type testing.
Also keep in mine you may have a bad ignition switch
or other issue & not the dist
The problem is that it shuts off,why
If you use Google you may find a way to trigger a spark
without starting the engine & then have someone wiggle
the ignition switch
You have to think outside the box & not change parts
until you find a failed one
SOURCE: 2003 Toyota 4 runner
Hi robrtsn,
As you forgot to say what the engine is in your 4-Runner....I'll give you the rule of thumb....if you have a timing chain in your engine, you'll need to check it only if it becomes noisy....If you have a timing belt, the manufactures recommend that it's replaced every one hundred thousand kilometers.....thats about sixty five thousand miles.... I believe that the later vehicles...(those with the electronic odometer fitted) have been extended to one hundred and fifty thousand, but to be on the safe side, I'd replace at one hundred thousand, especially with the number of sub standard parts that are available on the market these days....
Hope that's a help
Best regards Johngee10
SOURCE: replace front brake pad 2003 toyota 4 runner
Diagram is unnecessry.
Pull both front wheels
Work one at a time leaving the other for reference
Find the retention spring ... its a paperclip thickness wire spring... dislodge center retention loop and undo from both ends which engage brake pad retention rods.
Pull the rods out
Pull the old pads out... laying everything on the ground
Use scrap wooden wedges to pry between the rotor and the caliper ...inside and out until the calipers are fully withdrawn. Use the new pads to measure if they are far enough back.
Note... the brake fluid will have dropped in the master cylinder over many months of wear... do not fill it. When the calipers are pushed back they will fill the reservoir again... one wheel at a time.
Be sure to identify the correct pad based on what you took out and what is on the other side (if you screwed up the layout)
Make sure to take the old antisqueek backing plate from the old pad and place it on the new pad. They don't use lubricant on these anymore.
Replace the pads... the retention rods... then the retention spring
Do the other side
Then progressively step on the brake peddle until full tension is felt
Check the master cylinder reservoir... probably needs no additional fluid.
New pads will register in existing ridges in each disc in no time at all.
You should check the discs to see if they need to be replaced during this operation...using some calipers
SOURCE: I have a 1999 Toyota 4 Runner with 112,000 Miles.
The timing belt is an essential part, if it goes you are calling for a tow. I encourage you to have the belt replaced before this happens. While I've some belts still going with 200K on them (some people don't have the money, don't care, or don't have a clue) do you want to take the chance of being stranded. (don't you usually have someplace you need to be when this happens? and it's raining cats and dogs?) And if it's an interference motor as some have mentioned, the consequences are very expensive. But it's your vehicle, your call.
SOURCE: 2002 toyota 4 runner timing belt change interval
100 000km timing belt light on dash should come on when due
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