94 suburban randomly dies while driving and wont start until it has cooled down. previous owner installed thermostat in upside down causing engine to get hot and die. replaced thermo, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and had ignition module tested fine. ran good for two weeks and started stalling again with no warning. replaced fuel pump last night and it died again this morning. how accurate are module tests?

SOURCE: 1989 chevy g20 STALLING

to replicate running condition with module,test module while heating it with a hair dryer or heat gun,if module is bad when engine is warm,it will show up using this method

SOURCE: 1992 chevy corsica runs rough,stall or dies after stopping

Sounds the EGR valve and EVP sen is bad even if you tested it. The EGR valve cntrols idle and if carbon up will make the car stall or idle high and low (rpms going up and down) This was common on all cars during that time. I would say replace the EGR valve and senosr. This should take care of the problem. One more thing have the fuel pressure check on the car.

SOURCE: 85 vette starts but will not stay running

there is a sensor on the throttle body it' controls the idel of the vehicle it's called a tps and has a electrical lead to it this should be replaced it will be positioned right behind the butterflyplate of the throttle body

Bruce Bracey

• 1000 Answers
• Posted on May 07, 2009

SOURCE: 1999 GMC Suburban 350 wont run

Per your description, it sounds like you are missing an injector pulse from the ECM.
Check the under-hood fuse box and verify the "ECM1" fuse is good (12 volt supply to injectors).
With the key in the run position, verify you have 12 volts at an injector.
Barrow or purchase a "noid" light to verify you have an injector ground pulse from the ECM.
Let me know what you find and we can proceed from there.
Regards,

SOURCE: 2000 CHevy Silverado misfire code

try also the knock sensor..computer cant adjust timing