I have a 1985 chevy pickup, the fuel selector valve quit working, I have power from the selector switch. I just changed out the gauge cluster with a used unit, it ran fine before this, now it wont start since the different gauges. I just purchased a new selector valve and its not working as well. I disconnected the gauges and nothing, checked all fuses and they are good. What am I missing!
Did you change the pump with gauge cluster may have put bad pump in. some gauge clusters have built in pumps
SOURCE: 1991 toyota pickup fuel and temp gauges dont work
You might have a bad ground. According to my Haynes manual's wiring diagram, both gauges share the same ground and typically that is "located on the left side of the instrument panel", wherever that is. Sorry I can't be more specific about the location. While it may not be true on your vehicle (the wiring diagram states "typical late model" in its description), my wiring diagram says that the ground wire is Brown (BR). You might try locating that wire and track it to its attachment point. You also might try tapping into it and using a continuity tester and ground out the wire to metal (there's plenty of grounding points under there). Make sure the ignition key is off!! There might be a bad ground wire closer to the meters than the attachment point. Hope this is helpful. Allow plenty of time if you're going to investigate this yourself. Do you have other gauges? Do they work? I think that all of the gauges are ganged through the same fuse (but not through the same ground wire). You might consider checking the fuse to ensure that it's OK. Your owners manual that came with the truck will tell you which fuse is it. If there are other things on the same fuse and they work, it's not the fuse. I hope that this is helpful.
SOURCE: fuel sending unit in a 2000 chevy s-10 pickup
You must replace the sending unit in the gas tank to correct this problem, or do you already know this?
SOURCE: fuel gauge doesnt work
The fuel gauge in the fuel tank is simply a float connected to a bar connected to the sensor. Take a look at that and see if that float is stuck in one place causing a false reading.
SOURCE: Fuel Tanks reversed , Gauge not reading?
The Ford trucks were recalled for the tank switch replacement. Somehow the switches would pump fuel from one tank to the other. This would cause the one tank to overflow and or result in a fire from hot exhaust temps coming into contact with the fuel. Check the dash tank switch. It is probably bad.
SOURCE: all gauges on instument cluster not working
In most vehicles there is a wiring harness that runs under your dash to your heater etc. Sometimes the main plug comes loose. If you open up the steering column or somewhere down by your feet on the steering column is the main plug - look in your manual and track the wires with a tester ensuring you have power all the way to whatever is not working. If there is no power at the main plug then you might have a ground problem or a loose wire in the plug itself. Good luck
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Its the same gauge cluster, with no idiot lights. I have put the old cluster back and have even kept the cluster unplugged. The engine turns over fine, just not pumping fuel. I have a spark, just no fuel. I have checked power back to the selector valve under the cab, seems fine. Im wondering if they gave me a bad selector valve from the dealer.
I have been scratching my head over this. I can do that, i was hoping that it was something easy I was missing. I am looking at the wiring schematic and I just can t see how the guage would effect the fuel selector valve or anything else.
Nothing, meaning new selector valve not working?The only gauge to affect the fuel system would be the fuel gage. Does that work?
Yea you got me scratching my head too. Like you said I don't really see how the gauges could have an effect. If you have power to the valve in left or right mode then I guess its possible the valve could be bad. But you also had problem with old valve after the cluster change? You might go ahead and try the bypass just to rule out some other problem. If that works maybe while you have the valve disconnected from the fuel line but still wired, you could check and see if it is actually opening or not.
Can you temporaily bypass the selector valve and pull off of one tank and see if it will start? It's kind of crazy this all started after the cluster change.
Is the replacement gauge cluster exactly the same as the old one? Both idiot lights or both gauges. Have you tried putting old cluster back in?
Is the engine turning over but won't start or are you completly dead?
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