nobody does.... that is why they have ASE school.
here is a list of starting places.
1: check all fuses.
2: then post all driving and running symptoms... (got any?)
3: then scan it ( you did)
4: then look each up in the FSM (p2 code is Suzuki only code so...)
5: then do the tests the book says to do , to find real cause
the PCM never knows what is wrong, it only knows tests fail , only.
here, ill look at alldata.com and look (so can you) USA cars.... so........
2070 is IMT stuck.
IMT is varible intake induction ports. (small /large )
this new feature allows better low end engine torque. (fancy )
Trouble Code Conditions:
Ignition ON. No IMT valve position sensor fault exists. No IMT valve solenoid fault exists. Ambient temperature is greater than -9.75 C (14.45 F). Battery voltage is between 9.95 and 25.89 V. DTC P2071 is not set. IMT valve flap is not completely closed.
Possible Causes:
- Vaccum leakage from hoses or connections.
- Vaccum reservoir.
- IMT valve solenoid.
- IMT valve position sensor.
- Excessive mechanical friction in the flap operation.
128
Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature
is your thermostat , 8 years old, ??????????
what a tech does is read the temp and if too l low does tests to find cause., we never guess. do simple tests. ask how.
605 (a horror) i've no idea. (reset and pray)
Trouble Code Conditions:
A) ECM calculation function is malfunctioning. B) ECM EEP-ROM system is malfunctioning. C) ECM self shut-off function is malfunctioning. NOTE: The ECM enters fail-safe mode when malfunction A is detected: * The ECM stops the electric throttle control actuator control, throttle valve is maintained at a fixed opening (approx. 5 degrees) by the return spring. * The ECM deactivates ASCD operation.
Possible Causes:
457
Evaporative (EVAP) Emission System Fuel Cap Leak Detected
gas cap loose?
this means, the tank vent , is breached, or the controls bad.
we tighten the cap , reset the codes and drive, if comes back.
test cap or get new one. or if cap is good. we do the leak down
test fully stated in the FSM. (by the book) read it. its very clear.
what id do is fix the 2070 first.
then reset all codes drive and see what comes back.
what i do, is look at out door temps. is it -20F out or +70F?
i dont know your location so cant guess.
but if not fridge out, i make sure the engine hits 180F coolant temps
at a normal runnning time. (normal) if its too low or too slow the stat is no good. if the fan is stuck on, FIX that first. because a stuck on fan
in fridged temps,can in fact slow a engine warmup time.
I use a tool ($20) that is an IR Pyro temp gun.
I point it at the thermostat housing, and look at the temp hot.
then scan the PCM and see what the ECT shows.
if they agree, the PCM was not fibbing. see?
lets say it reads, 150 hot. bad, and the ECU shows 151
they do agree. and the water is too cold.
we then do test to find out why,
if the fan is off, then a new thermostat is the next act.
way up north we have cardboard blocking the RAD to get
faster warm ups and full cab heat. so....... location is everytinng
Alaska or Key west, FL?, things are different there.
I always work cooling first, because the PCM just HATES
frigid motors. causes all else to go , lil crazy.
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