Not true, at all. kevin... (your answer is wits end ways)
guessing is bad.
The CEL LAMP MUST COME ONE KEYON.
The lamp is the PCM self test and glows key on.
if not , the fuse to the PCM is blown, 10cents, not $1000 new PCM.
wow.
I repair PCM for living, from 1970. to now. L-Jetronics to present.
here is a better list
Battery at 12.6v rested. lamps glowing dont mean squat.
the battery below 10v , the PCM will fail.
the electronics spec is 10 to 16vdc. that is the rules.
then fuses good. (ask how to test them with an Ohmeter.)ask.
1: new car to you? PO prev.owner removed lamp to up sales price.
we call this the Classic, CEL (MIL dead cause)
removed it or painted the bulb black or black electrician tap, tricky applied. or the CEL holder is missing, (jokers all)
2: the scan tool works 10x better, use one (no comms? fuse blown, good comms. does the MIL show active or not? if active and the lamp is out the lamp is burned out or the PO removed it, the scan tool will not lie to you ,like old funky dash lamps. and PO's from H3LL.)
3; the 94 is OBD1 PCM. (ECU) and can be key on 3 times checked)
to activate the cause of failure, DTCs.
ever do that? every read that? its a fact.
here are some more facts.
the Immoblize will alow car to start for 2 seconds then kills spark and fuel. so if it glows, at key on, and stays glowing , its a waste of time
trying to start car. its IMMOBILIZED>
if the IMMO light is happy and will not crank here is the
ASD reasons.
http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html
this tool can scan old jeeps 93-95 and up.
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3120-Diagnostic-Reader-Vehicles/dp/B000KID2ZC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395411804&sr=1-1&keywords=INNOVA+3120
its only code reader but does do MIL status.
and readiness. and all DTCs.
to get the 3 key on test to work the CEL must be good.
that is why i use scan tools , so i dont need to waste time
with the lamp.
can take 1hr or more to replace lamp if bad or missing
btw, once access to lamp is attained, you can steal a unused lamp
for the CEL and fix it fast.
trick 2, on jeeps
put finger in ASD relay , and turn key on , then crank
can you feel it close, then drop out in 2 seconds.
?????????????
does this help?, tell more, ask more. get more.
INNOVA 3120 Diagnostic Scan Tool Code Reader for OBD1...
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SOURCE: 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lardo misfiring
You say you changed the cam sensor. A1391 code is a crank sensor on the top of the trans. bell housing.
SOURCE: 1994 Grand Cherokee Jeep wont start
It is likely one of your battery cables loose. Same thing just happened to me today. What you need to do is first lock the doors, and close them. Then you need to disconnect, and reconnect the battery cable, then if the security lights still blink you must use your key to unlock the door, then it should stop blinking, and start just fine.
SOURCE: Very rough idle on 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Edition V8
If you haven't changed the plugs or had the fuel system cleaned, now would be a good time to do it. The number 1 culprit for rough idles is dirty injectors or plugs. You can try an injector cleaner in a can (or bottle) for under $10 and see if it helps, and then work from there. If there isn't any improvement then if you are able to, check the plugs for any gunky buildup and if you find a bad plug, make sure you replace them all (or have them replaced) at the same time.
SOURCE: 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 5.7L V8, starter
Every morning at lunch time and evening my jeep won't start. It doesn't grind but the electrical goes crazy. After a couple of trys it finally starts. Help
SOURCE: I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Limited My
That's a generic O2 sensor circuit overvoltage warning. Did they find any additional codes? Also, did they clear the code for you? Your car is an OBD2-emissions car, meaning you'll have an O2 sensor before and after each catalytic converter. Is your engine the V8 or the inline 6? If it's the V8, you'll probably have four (although it could be two or three) O2 sensors. If it's the inline 6, you likely only have two. I'm asking about additional codes because that one doesn't help narrow down which sensor is bad. Have you noticed your gas mileage dropping at all? Or a buildup of black carbon soot in the tailpipes? Maybe less power than usual? If so, it's probably a primary (pre-cat) O2 sensor. Those are the ones that determine how much fuel the engine will be fed. If you don't have any discernable difference at all, it's probably a secondary sensor (post-cat). The issue I have is, either of those should throw at least one additional code (either to indicate which sensor is going bad, or in the case of a secondary sensor, you'll usually see a "catalytic converter below threshold" or similar code, since the secondary sensors are used by the computer to see how well the cats are working).
Any additional codes in there, or symptoms you can describe?
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Try leaving the ignition key in the on position, for maybe a half hour, to see if the check engine light finally comes on. If the light does come on and the jeep starts starts at that time, then your jeep ecu computer needs to be repaired.
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