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Lightest engine in class – By adopting lightweight materials, with an all aluminium construction and including linier plastic intake and tubular exhaust manifold
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Hello Malcolm , A cracked head, cracked block, or a blown head gasket can cause your problem. Put a pressure tester on the cooling system to determine if the pressure is too high.
If you overheat an engine with a cast iron block and an aluminium head, they will expand at different rates as they have different expansion coefficients. This will usually cause separation of the gasket and if you are losing coolant, it's a near certainty. The answer is a new gasket (pennies) plus a head skim at a local engineering shop, $100 or so (otherwise it won't seal again). You need a torque wrench and a workshop manual to check the torque settings and slackening/tightening order if doing it yourself, otherwise you'll cause further warping of the head. If the head isn't skimmed, it will go again after 50 miles or so.
Just as important as the torque values is the tightening sequence. Since modern engine heads are soft alloys this is key. The bolts are tighten down maybe half the final value on the first pass and then tighten down fully on the final pass. The Sequence is;
7 1 3 5
8 4 2 6
bolts 5&6 are the flywheel side of the engine
Torque values
Stage 1. 40-45Nm first pass
Stage 2. 85-90Nm. second pass
Since you have the head removed look for carbon build up on the pistons.
You may want to get a car service manual from the library or on the internet.
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