I've got a ford fiesta 16v ghia 1.2 automatic 1997 R plate. When I turn the engine on from a cold start it starts fine but then when you put it into drive to pull away it jolts forward and then stalls

SOURCE: Suzuki Grand Vitara 2.0 litre

Same problem for me. The car would idle at about 2500 when started from cold and about 3 miles on would not idle at all, resulting in the revs dropping off when changing gear or stopping. Also rather jerky in top gear unless thrashed - numerous trips to the garage for air idle valve, injectors etc. but still a problem! Have just found out that GVs are a bit prone to carbon build up in the throttle body - mine was almost blocked - it now feels like a different car.

SOURCE: 302 engine starts fine but shuts off when put in gear to pull out.

check the idle air bypass solenoid

SOURCE: Car stalls

Hey jkcalli!
Have you checked for any error codes?
Since your car is an 850 you should check your fuel pump relay, which is infamous for causing intermittent starting problems. Open the hood and remove the fuse box cover (4 torx screws), revealing the relays. If one of them is a green one marked 103 you should replace it with the newer, improved red relay. A used relay is cheap and should do just fine. 

Also, you should be able to hear the fuel pump working when turning the ignition to on. After doing this a couple of times the pressure becomes high enough for the pump not to engage. If so wait for the pressure to drop before listening for it again. 
Here's a topic with some info on the relay and how to check the voltage at the pump:http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?showtopic=15505&st=80&p=80586&#entry80586 

If fuel delivery is not the problem you should check for spark. If you do not have spark the problem is likely coil, camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor.
Good luck!

SOURCE: Ford fiesta keeps stalling

Hi

The problem is with your Idle Control Valve.

Look in the middle of the engine and you will see a plastic air box. Fastened to this will be the valve, a small cylinder with a wire connected to it, should be held on by 2 bolts

Undo the bolts and remove the valve. Spray WD40 into the two holes until it runs clear then rinse with petrol and let it dry.

Replace and bobs your uncle, should work fine.

You can replace the item for around £25

Rob Sinbad

• 709 Answers
• Posted on Jul 25, 2009

SOURCE: 325i BMW, 2003 (Automatic) Fuel Pump/Filter or

your camshaft position sensor may be going bad. usually with an old car it tend to go bad. The top of sensor can be covered or gumed up with grease, oil, dirt and cause it not to detect the flywheel turning. Camshaft sensor send single to your DME to deliver fuel and sparks to you engine. If camshaft sensor goes bad it will seem like your fuel pump and ignition coil is bad even-though they are good. Faulty camshaft sensor may caused you to have this issue and problems such as sometime it run good and all of sudden it shut off, sometime its start good and others time is doesn't start. Once the sensor goes bad, the car will not run. There are two Sensor one for the fuel and one for the sparks, I would replace both sensor because soon or later if it will go bad, it will leave you stranded although if you replace one you might as well replace the other. Check the coil and test using the light or volts tester to see you getting power to the coil, next check if your fuel pump is working, fuel pump will not stay running unless the sensor sense the flywheel is turning from your camshaft sensor. next time when your car does not start, check if you getting spark and fuel. Both sensor will cost you around 130 bucks. assuming your DME, fuel pump, coil, wires, etc... is working. keep me update and I will try to walk you through. btw stop by at any auto part store and pick yourself up Haynes auto repair book for your car, its a great tools and investment to have for your next repair work if you plan to keep your car and get to know the heart of it. good luck and i hope that help some.