"Bought a 1990 Pathfinder . After warm sputter , misfires and dies . Wont start again till cool .Put new fuel pump , new plugs , dist cap , etc . Last try Ignition module , still no fix ?"
Need a fresh start at a repairs shop Was no need to install any of those parts You needed to diagnose any and all issues first,then come up with a solution to repair
Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the fusible link connector for the fuel injection wiring harness. Be sure the ignition is OFF
before doing this. Disconnect the cold start valve wiring harness
connector. Disconnect the high tension lead (coil-to-distributor) at
the distributor and hold it 0.13-0.25 in. (3.3-6.3mm) away from the
cylinder head with a pair of insulated pliers and a heavy glove. When
the engine is cranked, a spark should be observed. If not, check the
lead and replace as necessary. If there is still no spark, go on with
the following system checks.
Make a check of the power supply circuit. Turn the ignition OFF. Detach the connector from the top of the IC unit. Turn the ignition ON.
Measure the voltage at each terminal of the connector in turn by
touching the probe of positive lead of the voltmeter to one of the
terminals and touching the probe of the negative lead of the voltmeter
to a ground, such as the engine. In each case, battery voltage should
be indicated. If not, check all of the wiring, the ignition switch and
all connectors for breaks, corrosion, discontinuity etc., then repair
as necessary
Check the primary windings of the ignition coil. Turn the ignition OFF.
Detach the harness connector from the negative coil terminal. Use an
ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the positive and negative
coil terminals. If resistance is 0.84-1.02 ohms, the coil is OK;
replace it if the reading is far from this range.
If the power supply, circuits, wiring and coil are in good shape, check the IC unit and pick-up coil as follows:
Turn the ignition OFF.
Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
Using
an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals of the
pick-up coil, where they attach to the IC unit. Measure the resistance
by reversing the polarity of the probes. If approximately 400 ohms are
indicated, the pick-up coil is OK, but the IC unit is bad and must be
replaced.
Fig. 10: Connect the ohmmeter to the pick-up coil terminals-1979-83 modelsFig. 11: Remove the screws (arrows) to detach the IC unit-1979-83 models
If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, proceed with the following:
Be certain the two pin connector to the IC unit is secure.
Turn the ignition ON.
Measure the voltage at the ignition coil's negative terminal.
Turn the ignition OFF.
WARNINGRemove the tester probe from the coil negative terminal before switching the ignition OFF, to prevent burning out the tester.
If 0 voltage is indicated, the IC unit is bad and must be replaced.
If battery voltage is indicated, remove the IC unit from the distributor, by proceeding as follows:
Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable.
Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor.
Disconnect the harness connector from the top of the IC unit.
Remove the two screws securing the IC unit to the distributor.
Disconnect the two pick-up coil wires from the IC unit.
WARNINGPull the connectors free with a pair of needlenose pliers. DO NOT pull on the wires to detach the connectors.
Remove the IC unit.
Measure
the resistance between the terminals of the pick-up coil. It should be
approximately 400 ohms. If so, the pick-up coil is OK and the IC unit
is bad. If the resistance is other than 400 ohms, the pick-up coil is
bad and must be replaced.
replace the distributor oil is leaking into the electronics of the distributor and shorting out pull cap back off and look and see if oil is leaking out
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sounds like you have a fuel pump problem, fuel pumps will usually get hot and then shut off allowing it to sit 30 mins lets the pump cool down allowing it to start pumping, the way you can test it is get a can of starting fluid the next time it quits raise your hood and spray some fluid down into the throttle body and if it starts and then dies it is most likely your fuel pump, hope this helps.
Does it crank but not fire?
I would do the cheap things first - ohm out the plug wires, check the plugs, then the cap/rotor.
The fuel pump relay (the one behind the glove box) is known to go bad - I removed mine and reflowed the solder joints and mine never failed again - or you can replace that.
If your car is dead, check the negative cable to the battery that it's not corroded on either end.
Try pulling the vacuum line off of the EGR valve when the engine is warm and starts to sputter. If it runs good cold and then dies when warm and won't start again until the engine cools it is most likely a bad or sticking EGR valve. Try the procedure to confirm it is the EGR. You can check the internet for location and an image of the EGR valve for your specific car. Please rate me on this answer.
mine would do th same i would die after it would warm up it ended up being the control module for your ignition replaced that after the plugs and plug wires works like a champ
check for 12v constant at your fuel pump if you are not getting that replace your relay.
if you are getting 12 volts at your fuel pump the fuel pump is possible to run tuel it gets warm then shut down to a lower rpm I would then replace the fuel pump
I have the same problem on my 2002 Eclipse RS 2.4l 4 cylinder. Replaced the battery, starter, fuel pump(not at one time) . It started up when I had the starter put on as well the fuel pump. But everytime I started the car up it ran good till I turned it off the problem was still there. The car sounds like it wants to start but it sputters you can smell the gas so I know its getting fuel. it starts up fine with a cold start like in the morning.
Try getting a diagnostic thats what Im going to do next week.
good luck!!!
thers a oil psi senser that wont let the fuel pump run at low psi when the car worms the psi gos down ,the fuel rely only runs the pump for about five sec as a primer then the oil psi senser takes over thirs a plug righi behind the oil fliter for the senser ,un plug it and put ajumper wire across it as a test ,you may need a oil pump
Fig. 10: Connect the ohmmeter to the pick-up coil terminals-1979-83 models
Fig. 11: Remove the screws (arrows) to detach the IC unit-1979-83 models
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