2006 Scion tC Logo
Anonymous Posted on Jul 10, 2013

No brakes/pressure So after changing nearly everything (front rotors and pads, rear rotors and pads, both rear calipers, and master cylinder) and then bleeding the system three times starting from rear passenger side to rear driver and then front passenger and then front driver. Then also bleeding master cylinder and abs unit twice still have no brake pressure when car is on. Also makes a hissing sound like air escaping when pushing pedal. Anybody have any ideas

  • Anonymous Jul 10, 2013

    Didn't think about that..thanks will keep u updated.

  • Chris Finnson Jul 10, 2013

    good luck

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jeff rouse

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  • Posted on Mar 19, 2022
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There is a PCV-type valve on your brake booster that has about a 3/8-1/2" vacuum line coming from the engine. Check that valve and the hose for leaks. Sometimes those vacuum valves will crack pretty easily with weather and age.

samohouse

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  • Posted on Mar 11, 2015
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Got the same problem replaced everything but the abs pump and power brake booster, have you found what is the problem yet? Any suggestions...

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Chris Finnson

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  • Posted on Jul 10, 2013
Chris Finnson
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Did you replace the lines when doing all the work, the lines are the cheapest part of it all

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 249 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 16, 2009

SOURCE: Changes brakes on Scion tc. One wheel now sticks.

is there a rubber brake hose? if so it could be collapsing inside

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Ruben Diaz

  • 514 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 09, 2010

SOURCE: abs, brake, and battery light

try to jump start your car and disconnect negative battery terminal if the car dies your alternator probably is bad. take it off the car and bring your alt. to autozone for a free test. by the way it would help to know year and model and year. have a good day.
p.s check your brake fluid level

Carl Beigel

  • 21 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 13, 2011

SOURCE: after i replaced front brake

If it makes 1 click for every time you push the brake pedal , You probably didnt notice it before you did the brakes but the noise is a shift lock solenoid , normal.

Anonymous

  • 520 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 07, 2011

SOURCE: My front brakes were grinding

my first suggestion would be to take it apart and re-inspect everything. double check that you have it put together right. when you install brakes you should be able to turn the rotor and hear if something is rubbing. if all is on right then you may have a caliper that is hanging up and engaging the brakes all the time.

Anonymous

  • 1386 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 23, 2011

SOURCE: I have a 2005 scion xb, I have replaced brake pads

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

When you open be bleed valve, does the fluid flow solid when brakes are applied? If yes then the problem will be on the hydrovac. You can have a vacuum leak that's why the brake pedal stays on the floor. If the fluid is not solid then you'll need to bleed it out some more. You may need to replace the hydrovac to get your brakes working normally again.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

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There are at least 2 items that will cause your problem. The first is when you changed the pads you place the caliper in a different place on the support pins that the caliper slides on to centralise the brakes on the rotor. These mounting pins are prone to rusting up and actually keeps one pad on the rotor as the caliper cannot centralise during brake application. The second is a problem that occurs when the brake fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir from pushing the piston back into the caliper. Muck in the lines is pushed back into the compensating ports in the Master cylinder causing the brakes to drag and build up pressure from the heat generated by having the brakes on. Try flushing out the brake system using metholated spirits or replace the master cylinder
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Here ya go! This is for the rear brake pads removal:

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2001 Montero brakes. R&R rear rotor, pads & calipers but the brake pedal travel is still very slow to "reset". I am certain my front's need new rotors, pads and possibly calipers due to the...

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They are actually pretty simple, but check or replace the rotors before you install new pads. The front discs have 2 bolts per caliper as do the rears. There are hardware clips that are different on the front and rear.

You unbolt the caliper and tie it up with a rope or coat hanger so the caliper does not hang by the brake hose. Service the rotors and then when you are ready to replace the caliper, you take off the master cylinder cover. Then you use a "C" clamp to drive the caliper piston flush into the caliper. Doing this will force Brake fluid back into the Master cylinder. This is why the Master cylinder cap must be off. Attach the brake pads with a chemical to eliminate rattles and then slide the loaded caliper over the rotor. Attach the 2 bolts on the caliper and then you are ready to bleed the system.

Repeat this on each wheel and then bleed all 4 wheels. There will be very little air in the system using this method. The back brakes have the E-Brakes inside the rotors. If you pull off the rear rotors you will have to loosen the E-brakes by turning the Starwheel inside the rotor to allow for more clearance. Adjust the same Starwheels by tightening until independent wheel drags substantially, then loosen up 5 or more clicks on the Starwheel.

The calipers will take care of themselves and center themselves through use. Thats about all I can say about this process. I hope this helps you.
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Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
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  2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
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  7. Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads from the brake caliper bracket.
To Install:
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  2. Pivot the brake caliper down over the brake pads and into the brake caliper bracket. Insert the lower brake caliper pin bolt and torque bolt to 70 ft-lb. (95 Nm).
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  6. Check the master cylinder level and add fluid as necessary.
Rear To Remove:
Rear disc pads R&I gm-09-00-492.gif

  1. Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Remove fluid from the reservoir until the level is lower then half way between the MAX and MIN levels.
  2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
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  4. Remove the upper caliper mounting bolt.
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  6. Remove the inboard and outboard pads from the caliper bracket.
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To Install:
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It can be the wheel Hub bearings. The rotors if warped will wear out pads early. Bad calipers are another possibility as well as a bad Master cylinder.

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