I have a 1997 Cherokee, seems to be stuck in 2nd gear, I have to drive in this gear for like 25 to 30 min until it finally shifts right. When it does its like a new jeep. I hear of a coolant thermostat that may be the ailment. I have no check engine lights or anything, it seems to work when it wants to. My tranny isnt skipping or banging or anything...It seems like some sort of temp isnt being read properly for correct shifting. But when it does kick in, the thing drives like new. Had tranny flushed, new liquid, garage says might be a stuck selonoid, help please, Im wasting too much gas.....and around corners, I get the popping sound, hit the gas with nothing happening, until I pat the gas pedal syndrome,...help please!! I love my jeep.
All answers USA on USA cars,only. (exports are diffr)
so if you didnt scan it when it fails, how would you ever find the truth? (if no errors. then it can be pure mechanical failure)
the car has TCM a tranny brain.
its covered in the SM, read that chapter yet.
on newer cars if the Tranny overheats or engine both can go to LIMPHOME< but your car is not even close to new, is it?
Jeep calls that LIMP-in.
my guess (sux) is its the 4.0L engine with matching AW4 box
Aisin-Warner
it wise to know whats there first. before trying to understand it
a FACT !
so did you google search AW4 boxes. , i bet not.
but they are unique. as all different boxes are.
is the CEL lamp glowing running, Check engine lamp
PDC fuse 16 ok (4L,aw4) TCM power, must be good at all times.
is the throttle valve cable to transmission stuck out?
if it does, the TCM and trans will either go nuts, or shift way late.
http://etereman.com/blog/fiat-transmission/the-popular-aw4-automatic-transmission-and-common-problems-associated-with-it
the TCM shifts using solenoids, we check that the signals to said solenoid actually do go to the correct voltage levels
in to 3rd. (you said stuck in 2nd)
if that is ok, then the TCM did it job and the problem is INSIDE the box. end story, we use remote test meters to monitor wires driving.
chapter 21 and 8w are free to read here any time you wish
posted over 300 times the Jeep Bible (SM)
http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
click XJ
If your thermostat is reading fine its probably fine, does it take a while to warm up more than normal? its a cheap part and you should flush the coolant while your at it.
Transmission maybe speed sensor is gummed up and only moves when its warm enough to slide through the grit/etc change t-fluid (again) and filter if that doesnt cure it, pull the speed sensor out clean it all and put it back in, may need to replace if its damaged or corroded.
speed sensor location im not so sure on the XJ ive never touched the trans in it, what size engine you got in it. I cant imagine a trans for an xj being to bad from a junkyard or somethin.
SOURCE: 02 jeep liberty won't shift into 3rd or 4th gear.
Ratio codes generally indicate a pressure loss & slipping which the computer reads as a gear ratio problem. Likely you need a rebuild.
SOURCE: 2000 jeep grand cherokee limited starts in 3rd gear
oil pressure problem should be checked independently of other problems...Use a good accurate mechanical gauge to check. If pressure is good (no less than 15psi at idle hot (I prefer to see at least 20) check dash grounding, block ground and if OK, change sending unit. Dash and body ground can influence operation of shift and body control modules so indirectly your problem may or may not be related, depending upon what you find while testing. And it could turn out to be a defective module! They are expensive and just plugging new ones in may work, but then again, it might not. I might be totally incorrect on this...that's the value of actually being there instead of doing this by "remote control".
If you read the numerous posts pertaining to all vehicles, you will see that you are not alone with electrical problems...As long as the engineers who design this stuff, keep using "modules" to replace ordinary simple and reliable systems, we will continue to have these problems. Do some testing and I'm sure you will find a solution! (I'm still waiting for someone to make a program for a PC that will give a complete readout of every system in a vehicle, including exact faults instead of general system "suggestions")
Good luck
SOURCE: 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee transmission or transfer case
As I said, trans fluid keeps the internal components "alive"... Low fluid level can cause burning of internal clutches, premature hardening of seals (essential to proper transmission of fluid pressure) as well as lubrication of necessary gear components such as planetary gear set (which can cause whine etc. which you now have) All of these components rely upon a constant flow of fluid for both cooling and lubrication. Depending upon how low and how long these parts had interrupted fluid flow, directly influences how much damage was done. I take no joy in telling you that you may have damaged your unit, I'd be far happier if I could give you a quick, inexpensive fix. But based upon what you have said, If I was working hands-on with this problem, I would make the recommendation I've already made. There are pressure tests etc that can be done at a transmission shop to verify to some degree of certainty what is going on within your unit. Hopefully they may find something other than what I've said. At this point though, it is wise to have it checked out by a professional, before you become stranded at a time when you can least afford to be.
SOURCE: 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Shifting Problems
Check the Trans fluid level with it running and at operating temperature. Jeep NAG1 transmissions are known to have the input electric seal leak trans fluid. Not an exspensive fix add Mopar ATF4 and then relace the guild seal.
SOURCE: ENGINE MALFUNCTION LIGHT STAYS ON
If the light was flashing when it came on, then it means your engine is misfiring.
A solid light can mean anything.
This
light comes on when the computer detects a
fault of some sort in its diagnostic tests. If it keeps detecting this
issue, the light will remain on. If the light turns off, then it has
detected that the issue may no longer be present.
In
order to find out what the exact reason was for your light, You need to
have your car computer scanned to retrieve the code that
the computer would have stored when the light triggered. Most garages
will do this free of charge. The code will tell you what may have
caused the light to initially go on
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I forget the name, but there is a transmission additive that has two different colored substances I the same divided bottle. Any parts house should have it...i got mine at oreillys. It worked wonders for a Hyundai car and my Dodge pickup...both with trans acting up.
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