Hi, I'm trying to put a new flaming river steering shaft onto my 1984 CJ& with the power steering. The new shaft has a 3/4'' yoke and 36 spline count, but I cannot for the life of me get it to mount on the steering box shaft. It almost seems as if the shaft is too big (no jokes please...) I've measured and even though the steering box should be at 3/4'', it seems to be an 1/8 of an inch too wide. Has anyone had this problem? Is is possible that I have a different steering pump (I'm not the original owner) but I honestly don't think they make a saginaw box that is just 1/8'' larger shaft diameter...

gotta pull she whole steering shaft out loosen bolts take off the steering where if you can or remove the whole support with the steering arm through it at one time (same both) when you get it off there may be a small clip holding it onto the shaft spline if then you can take gear off good replace and be dune if its stuck can you even get the small gear in town by itself if so cut the gear with a hack saw or cutoff wheel down the side of the spline hole knock it off the put the new one on last of all no gear available ? get a used gear (or new ) 0ff of totally different model and mod it onto the spline (welding ?)

Can you post a picture of this "bottle cap".. I think you are just seeing the splines (they can kinda resemble the rough crimpings' that a bottle cap has...
There should be nothing on top / on the end of the Midship splined stub shaft... You remove the hog-ring, and press the yoke off/over the spline. the spline and end yoke have a "dead spot" - which makes you keep the driveshaft in-phase during reassembly.. the dead spot is 2 splines that have been joined together at the end.. the end yoke will have a spline removed to accommodate this...
PS - soak the end yoke and spline liberally with PB Blaster.. Walk away..the longer the better... Then attempt to remove.. Good Luck!

This is not easy....You will need air tools ,spray penetrate,seal remover,hammer,and Jack stands..Seal installation tool,.All proper tools..safety glasses.correct seal replacement.,new lock nut...Set park brake,block rear wheels,raise vehicle front and safely place jack stands under each side of lower control arms..Spray lube front drive shaft mounting hardware and lock nut that holds Yoke on front diff..Let it set to penetrate..put vehicle in neutral..Mark shaft to yoke location and direction perfectly because it has to be installed in perfect timing exactly how it was removed..,Remove drive shaft..Remove lock nut and yoke from front diff...You will have to hold yoke while removing lock nut because it will spin..PROTECT HANDS..( These can be VERY DIFFICULT to remove..Sometimes they have to be heated..You will need a yoke removal tool if it doesn't tap off with hammer...Mark exactly the yoke to spline location before removal..You can take close up photos however Mark it also to be sure...If you re-install it wrong it will vibrate terribly..Once yoke is removed You can remove seal.Make sure the new seal is correct...CAREFULLY..DO NOT DAMAGE SPLINES WHILE REMOVING..Sometimes even the perfect seal remover will damage splines..So cover it to protect spline threads..Clean all areas once seal is removed..Make sure nothing is pitted or damaged...Install new seal with installation tool..Lightly,perfectly tap it flush with diff..You can use old seal to install new seal if you don't have installation tool But only a pro should do that...Once in place Line drive shaft yoke with your marks and tap it on ..Use NEW LOCKNUT AND TORQUE IT TO SPEC..Install drive shaft as marked..torque to spec..Lower truck and check fluid..Complete..

Please follow the procedure of steering shaft removal on: http://www.silveradosierra.com/suspension/steering-shaft-removal-t3172.html and http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/1703-jeep-cj-7-clutch-linkage-upgrade/

A continental is a front wheel drive car since 89. You must mean a town car. The pinion shaft seal is tricky because of a bearing preload issue that can be catastrofic if you get it wrong. I would recomend seeking the skills of a pro.

I searched under 1997 lincoln continental and found this: Driveshaft and U-Joints
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Town Car and Mark VII-VIII Fig. 1: The bolts retaining the rear driveshaft yoke-to-differential flange require a 12mm, 12 point wrench or socket to loosen them
Fig. 2: Remove the bolts retaining the rear driveshaft yoke-to-differential flange
Fig. 3: Separate the driveshaft from the axle flange and . . .
Fig. 4: . . . disengage the driveshaft from the transmission output shaft
Fig. 5: Insert a plug onto the splines of the transmission output shaft to prevent fluid from leaking out

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Mark the position of the driveshaft yoke on the axle companion flange so they can be reassembled in the same way to maintain balance.
3. Remove the flange bolts and disconnect the driveshaft from the axle companion flange.
4. Allow the rear of the driveshaft to drop down slightly.
5. Pull the driveshaft and slip yoke rearward until the yoke just clears the transmission extension housing seal. Mark the position of the slip yoke in relation to the transmission output shaft, then remove the driveshaft.
6. Plug the transmission to prevent fluid leakage. To install:
   
7. Lubricate the yoke splines with suitable grease.
8. Remove the plug from the transmission and inspect the extension housing seal; replace if necessary.
9. Align the slip yoke and output shaft with the marks made at removal and install the yoke into the transmission extension housing. Be careful not to bottom the slip yoke hard against the transmission seal.
10. Rotate the axle flange, as necessary, to align the marks made during removal.
11. Install the driveshaft yoke to the axle flange. Install the bolts and tighten to 71–95 ft. lbs. (95–130 Nm).
12. Lower the vehicle.

there is a long bush type bearing in this tunnel just at the end were the seal fits in it can were out and let the prop shaft flap about, this in turn rips the seal to bits,,,also the yoke has a polished part on the end that go's over the spline into the end of the gear box tunnel the seal can were a groov into this part, and no amount of new seals will stop it leaking them as the new seal runs in this worn out groov, again ripping it to bits,,,test the long bush type bearing by holding the prop shaft yoke and pushing it up and to the side, if it moves about replace the bush in the end of the tunnel as well,, its a push in fit! with a big hammer!!
if the yoke has a groov in it you need a new prop as all prop shafts are balanced so you can just fit a new yoke it could throw the car up in the air when your driving it down the free way,,,,by shaking it apart
i hope this is of help to you

Mark position of drive shaft and yoke - to install in the same position (not to upset balance)
Remove and discard small "U" bolts on yoke Slide drive shaft up spline end to dislodge drive shaft from yoke.
You can either "beat" U join out of shaft, but better to bring to auto parts store that has a machine shop to install new joint
Use new "U" bolts to install
Make sure "U" joint is fully seated in yoke and installed in same position as removed

I went to another company with real experts who can speak english and make sense. he found the answer right away and gave me some sources to purchase the right shaft.

If this is a 4X4 then the problem is most likely the slip yoke not sliding smoothly on the transfer case output shaft splines. You can correct this bt lubricating the slip yoke splines with Teflon Grease .
If it is a 4X2 then lube the output shaft splines on the back of trans.