Question about 1997 Buick LeSabre
Water pump on m 97 lesabre is busted and i need instructions on how to remove and replace it
THE POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY --- ARRGGH...Not a problem.
The power steering pump is held by two bolts. Use a socket and remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom bolt. Be careful not to completely remove the bottom bolt. The PS pump will loosen up enough so that you can push it towards the firewall and you will JUST have enough room to remove the waterpump bolts. Its tight but it will squeeze out.
Posted on Dec 16, 2009
If it is a V6 !!! engine then obtain a standard power steering pump pulley puller and large drain pan or a couple of large rectanglar cake pans (not glass)from local auto parts store or Auto Zone or Walmart ...Also, and this is very important you must also have an ignition coil mounting clamp/bracket a hack saw or better yet a cut off wheel. along with the rest of the tool box...Now, drain and save as much antifreeze/coolant as you can. You can pour this through a coffee filter to remove the dirt and stuff that you don't want and it will still look like new.
Next, carefully remove the battery and park it on dry concrete then if yours still has the plastic engine cover - remove it. Now, with serpentine still in place, lossen the water pump pulley THEN with a 6-sided 15mm socket and breaker bar on the serpentine idler pulley bolt (you might want to use a long extension with 14mm deep socket as an extension for the breaker bar for more leverage) you can lift or push down (don't remember which but it is easy) to lossen the serpentine -- oh yea, draw yourself a quick picture of how the serpentine is routed or take a picture of it before you remove it...
Now with the belt tucked away toward the front of the engine and before removing water pump pulley you will have to cut off about 1/2 of the rear stud (1 of 2) sticking up from the engine mount, only then can the water pump pulley be removed.
Now you can see the real problem - THE POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY --- ARRGGH, it blocks the rear 2 water pump bolts. IT must be removed. It's ok though 'cause you got the pulley puller right. wrong, there is no way
to get all the pieces needed between the pulley and the frame. OK, first of all the bolts with the kit are tooo long to fit between pulley and frame - use hack saw to remove about 3/4 of an inch (including bolt head) now it fits. OK, now remember that coil mount, your going to use that instead of the black ring collar around the split ring clamp. I used a little bit of black mastic (chewing gum will also work) to help hold things together until I had the newly modified bolt and split ring and coil mount around split ring all screwed in a few turns on the threads into the power steering pump shaft,... then, with a very big screw driver wedged in to hold the clamp (remember that igniton coil mount, that you used instead of the standard "ring" to hold the split ring together) and and a wrench on the puller the power steering pulley slides right off... cool.
Now it's pump time, ok, remember everthing you ever learned about gaskets, well block it from your mind, 'cause I'm agona share a secert with you. Remove the old pump, 4 big bolts and 4 small bolts, the small bolts are easy, just clean them up real good and lay them on the cowl or edge of fender. The 4 big bolts --- go all the way through to the water jacket, when you remove them is when you will need the cake pans - to catch coolant for the coffee filter. Then clean them real good as in remove all of the old sealent if used and chase the threads with a die to clean the threads of rust (bolts that are not clean can and will sometimes seize up before they are in all the way, not good). Now use a putty knife or such to scrape clean the mating surface on the engine block. Now the secret... take the new water pump and about 1/2 a tube of silicone sealer ... lay a bead of sealer along the gasket surface then using your finger, press finger down into silicone and lift, move forward or back and dab up and down as you go... maybe 2 or 3 laps causing a bunch of little peaks to stick up 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch above the surface. Many, many little peaks, be careful not to leave any silicone on the inner pump surface as it will break free and get stuck where you don't want it(like in the heater). Lay the pump down in a safe place to cure overnite.....next day, reinstall pump... NO gasket!!!, the peaked silicone is wonderful, acts like an o-ring and comes off with the pump next time... use small bolts first, snug, not tight, not yet. Install the large bolts with a layer of silicone on the threads and around the end next to head. Tighten bolts in a crossing pattern like your tightening a cylinder head, re-install pulleys, belt & battery - in that order...the power steering pulley goes back on using the same shortened stud... oh,yea fill it with 50% antifreeze 50% distilled water.
The "Peaked Silicone" technique has never failed me... ever. Including a '73 Rolls Royce, "77 Bently, a Ferrari Daytona, a gagle of MB's and a few others including my '97 Park Avenue V6 and '64 Plymouth 318-V8...ever. ...cool.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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