When the car is first started it idols fine but when gas pedal is barely pressed the rpm gage rapidly starts jumping around, going from 1000 rpm to 0 rpm than shoots back up to 1500 rpm and continues to do it. The car sounds like it is trying to die. When driving the car the car will "get up and go" and drives fine at high rpms, occasionally jerking. When letting off the gas slowly the car will start jerking like i have let off the clutch quickly. It will continue to **** until i compeletly let off the gas. When bogging down the car begins to back fire. The car is burning rich and you can smell gas and oil. When the car warms up it does not do it as bad but in the morning it is horrible. Yesterday I started the car, as soon as I touched the gas it began idoling rough trying to die, i reved up the motor to about 5000 rpm, because it sometimes stops when i do that, when it got back to 1000 rpm the car started shaking again for about 3 min and died. I started the car back up, it started fine, it automatically began to idol severly and trying to die, it then, for the first time, reved up to 3000 rpm by itself, i turned off the motor. I let it sit for about a min and started it back up, put it in reverse and went to park it. It "coughed" up the drive way and i let it sit for about 3 min it, it still acted up badly but never died again. I have not driven it since. All the plug wires, spark plugs and cool pack have been changed and are good. Please help me figure out what it is. Could it be electrical or could it be the fuel pump?
SOURCE: Rough idol. O2 sensor
There is a Temp sensor for the computer that tells the Motor what the Temp is of the engine and when they do decide to take the big nap. It usually is that sensor remember to ask the temp switch that operates the computer control Not your temp Gauge. There are two so make sure you get that one, Alright that should get you going I just had the same problem on a chevy, Its tell the engine its is well below operating temp, It probably always starts good when it has sat all night or its cold out and then after its run for awhile it starts acting up missing running extremely rich and burning black smoke, I sure hope that helps you out a 15.00 dollar sensor can sure mess up your hole day,
SOURCE: My 2000 Accent GL is reving into HIGH RPMs! 5 speed 1.5 L
check your anti freeze and watch your temp gauge.any check engine light on.
SOURCE: 2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 engine accelartor problem
LOOK at your throttle plate and see if it is wedged open. there is a piece riveted on that i have seen come loose and prop open throttle
SOURCE: Car reving up and down on its own 3 to 4 times, then sputtering and dying?
The previous solution to check the idle air contol is in the correct area but needs some clarification.
The idle control is accomplished by two parts: Throttle position sensor ( $35 at Autozone) and idle contol valve approx $190. I replaced the throttle position sensor about a week ago and it runs perfect
to date but am a skeptic after almost two years of dealer incompetance. I researched all the sensors and failure symptoms on the internet and the throttle position sensor failure symptoms matched mine
exactly. See http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Throttle _Position_Sensor
SOURCE: 2003 Hyundai Elantra won't start !!!
Could be a problem with the clutch pedal switch. I'd have a look under the dash first to make sure no wires have been knocked of the pedal switch. If there's no sound, not even a clunking sound it may be the solenoid. I'd first want to eliminate the pedal wiring. Remove the small wire on the starter (most likely a spade type terminal) and using a piece of insulaated wire attach it to the starter where you removed the spade. Flick the other end of the wire on the positive of the battery. If the starter operates your looking at the pedal switch/ relay fault. If not its the starter. MAKE SURE CAR IS IN NEUTRAL BEFORE TRYING THIS. Ignition switched off. That way it will crank but not start.
Cheers John
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