It just started doing it about a week ago. It just stops running. I had the fuel filter changed and its still doing the same thing. I listened to the fuel pump and it sounds like it is pumping. What else could it be? It cranks to try to start but some times it will start again and some times it wont.
Got one in my shop doing the same thing you and a couple others describe here. I first thought it was the fuel pump, but that seems to not be the case. I am taking the ignition module off today and having it tested at NAPA. THey say they can put it through a couple of drive cycles and see if it cuts off. I'll let you know. THis car I have has already had a crank sensor replaced, but still dies and won't restart. When it dies, I noticed that spark has dropped out, but fuel pressure is still good. Let you know, later, but I think this ign. module is to blame.
Had the ign. module tested on mine, and it passed three times. I'm thinking about your cam sensor idea since my intake gskt is leaking and I know I may have other pressure leaks in the cooling system. Ran good today upon reassembly, so I will work on it more tomorrow and post you my results. Thanks for all help.
I am also checking wires under dash Thanks:C4rys3
Well, it was the ignition module, even though it tested good at Napa three times. Napa's test doesn't heat up the module at all. I put in a new Magnavox, and it hasn't died since. This was after numerous fuel pressure tests, and a new intake gasket set. Hope this helps. TT
Spoke to customer today. No more stalling problem, and they are happy!
No, I didn't but I had a leaky intake gasket, so I was in there and checked the wires anyway. THe customer had already replaced the crankshaft sensor when I got it in the shop. Sounds like you got it fixed. Hope the intake holds up for you, too. THaNks for the update! TT
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Look at the ecm and if it has the number 1228253 on it replace it. These units were upgraded by gm and will give a cutting off problem, use 16198264 or newest number. Non delco or aftermarket ecms are problems and may be a rebuilt 1228253.
Thank you folks! I think all suggestions were good as I believe many issues can cause these similar problems. In my case I was thinking cam sensor, module, coil, temp sensor and throttle positioning sensor. In the past I have changed the computer module twice to resolve issue. And again the module seems to have resolved it. I have not yet ruled out any of the others as the car ran great on and off.
Testimonial: "Look at the ecm and if it has the number 1228253 on it replace it. These units were upgraded by gm and will give a cutting off problem, use 16198264 or newest number. Non delco or aftermarket ecms are problems and may be a rebuilt 1228253."
I had this year buick and the same problem. I had to keep changing out the computer or better known as the coil pack. That is where the prolem is. for some reason a certain coil pack made at a certain time has this problem. You will have to ask buick what numberthe good pack has. The coi8l pack is the one the spark plugs attach too. It was a $300 item new so I would get one from the junk yard. When I finally found which number to look out for I never had the problem again. One time I had to take on from a different model car that was similar but the firing order was different so I had to switch the wires to the right firing order.
Look at the ecm and if it has the number 1228253 on it replace it. These units were upgraded by gm and will give a cutting off problem, use 16198264 or newest number. Non delco or aftermarket ecms are problems and may be a rebuilt 1228253.
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Possible solution,
I was having the same problem with my 1991 buick and my mechanic friend took a look and said he replaced my mapping sensor and now it runs great. he also said they get dirty after a while so sometimes all u have to do is clean it. the sensor is right in front of u to the right of the oil dipstick.
I have been having the same problem. There is only one camshaft sensor, located behind the waterpump Polly. The sensor behind the harmonic balance is the crankshaft polly. On my Park Avenue both the cam and crank sensors are brand new and my car only has 108,000 miles. Everything electric is new as well. I installed a new Ignition Module back in May, but I think it's defective, it's gone bad already. The engine suddenly stalls when it reaches operating temperature. The map sensor rarely ever cause the engine to stall, just run rough. A temperature sensor doesn't usually cause engine stalling either. Fortunately the ignition module is still under warranty, so I think I'm going to have to take it back, and put a new one in.
Look at the ecm and if it has the number 1228253 on it replace it. These units were upgraded by gm and will give a cutting off problem, use 16198264 or newest number. Non delco or aftermarket ecms are problems and may be a rebuilt 1228253.
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Okay under the steering column is the ignition switch...if you look up under there...along with the signal switch wires should be a seperate red or black wire that holds the resistance wires...If those are broke anywhere in the line, but makes contact when you start the car...the vehicle will think it is being stolen and shut off...Also if the water gets too hot the coolant sensor will sometimes kill the engine....wait about five minutes and see if it starts back up again. You might also want to check the cam sensor circuit if it is a 3.8 engine. Otherwise you have ECM problems
I have been having the same problem. There is only one camshaft sensor, located behind the waterpump Polly. The sensor behind the harmonic balance is the crankshaft polly. On my Park Avenue both the cam and crank sensors are brand new and my car only has 108,000 miles. Everything electric under the hood is new. Cam and crank sensors usually don't malfunction from hot temperatures, it's very rare and almost never heard of. I also have a new computer (ECM) in my car. When the ECM goes out the car exhibits all kinds of radical behavior, and I have replaced the ECM twice in this vehicle.
If it were me, here's what I think.
I installed a new Ignition Module back in May, but I think it's defective, it's gone bad already. The engine suddenly stalls when it reaches operating temperature. The map sensor rarely ever cause the engine to stall, just run rough. A temperature sensor doesn't usually cause engine stalling either. Fortunately the ignition module is still under warranty, so I think I'm going to have to take it back, and put a new one in.
The electronic ignition module is a power inverter like device which takes 11 volts of DC current and upscales it to 42.000 volts of ignition, which makes the normal ignition occur in the Buick's engine. When the capacitors in the Ignition Module start to fail, the module grounds to fault when hot, causing the engine to die, and resets when cool, allowing you to start up the again after several minutes of cooling.
If you replace the ignition module, make sure all wires are connected to the new just the same way they were on the old one, in respect to your car's spark plug firing order.
a bad map sensor can cause it to die as well as the resistor reader in the ignition.measur the resistance of the tabs on your key and patch in a resistor in the ignition wiring,or replce the 99% of these problems...the ICM driver module.the silicone paste dries out and the aluminum bamck can no longer dissipate heat and the internal power transistors burn out.
i might add,get a spark tester and see if you have spark when it does not start.
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SOURCE: 1991 Park Avenue: Where is the fuel filter on a 91 Buick...
Hi
First off the fuel filter is usually located in the under body, under the rear passenger door. Best tools to use. I recommend two open end wrenches of the correct size. Always turn counterclockwise when loosening.
If the filter has been under there for a well, you might want to use some liquid wrench or WD 40. Saturate the bolts really good about 48 hours before repairs, on a 19 year old car, you'll probably be glad you did. No special procedure, it's self explanatory, installation is the reverse of removal.
For safety make sure you first relive the pressure in the fuel system before disconnecting the fuel line. Under the hood, on the fuel rail assembly, and behind the port that holds the fuel pressure regulator in place, is the metal valve stem that acts as the fuel system pressure relief valve. Take the valve cap cover off and push the pin in to relieve the fuel pressure. Maybe having a plastic bottle to catch the gas that will escape would be a good idea.
Always safety first. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: buick 1991 park avenue.
Alldata has them...I thing they charge you around $20 a year for the vehicle.
SOURCE: 1991 buick park avenue will not run fuel pump is good and replaced the fuel filter
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1810766-1991_buick_park_avenue_stop_running
Check out this link. It may help you with your problem.
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I changed out the ignition module. Took mine into autozone and they tested it. It wasn't that. I'm thinking it might be the camshaft sensor by the pully, not the water pump. There are two camshaft sensors. I also have heard the Mass Air Flow sensor might be the problem on this year and model. Mine is not super charged. Let me know if you find the problem and I'll do the same. Mine is blinking a code 41.
The shop is telling me that the cam shaft senors wires are needing to be replaced. (welded) I guess it sitting so close to the water pump that has been leaking made them go bad. I'll keep you updated.
There are 2 camshaft position sensors. One by the water pump, and one down by the pully. Had those changed, the wires to them checked and fixed, a new ignition mod, coolant system flushed and it has worked fine ever since. Mine was showing a code 41.
I agree Ignintion modular testing done at Napa, autozone and places like don't detect if they are bad. When I took mine into Autozone they checked it and said it was fine. I don't think the tests they run on them gets them hot enough. I had heard that some where else so I bought one and intalled it anyway and my car still did the same thing. Thats when I decided to take it to a shop cause I dont have a puller to get to the cam sensor behind the pully. In my case I think it was the combination of the two things 1) both camshaft sensors with wires bad because of the leaking 2) igniton mod. If I had the same problem again, I would have changed out and checked the wires to both camshaft senors first. (the one by the water pump, and then the one down by the pully. I am still not totally convinced the ignition modular was bad but since I didn't do the work I can't say for sure. It sounds like that was your problem however. Just out of curiosity, did you change the camshaft sensors or re do the wiring to them?
my car died at a red light and it wont start again its not the fuel pump or the filter it tries to start but it wont
Car stalls unexpectedly. Will start after some waiting 1o to 20 min other times right away. In the past changeing module under coil resoved the issue how ever this fix lasted only about 6 months. Lately I am more concerned it may be the cam positioning sensor because now it will back fire at times. It is getting progressively worse. Temperture does seem to be an issue and you may want to check the temp sensor as the car almost always starts cold.
"Look at the ecm and if it has the number 1228253 on it replace it. These units were upgraded by gm and will give a cutting off problem, use 16198264 or newest number. Non delco or aftermarket ecms are problems and may be a rebuilt 1228253."
I was told at one point that mine was the camshaft sensors, but affter hearing about the faulty coil pack and changing to one with the suggested number I no longer had the problem. I didn't have a leak.
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