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Either the clutch needs adjustment, or throwout bearing is going bad and needs replacement. If it's the latter, have entire clutch service done. A Chilton/Haynes repair manual from your local parts store can help you trouble shoot this issue.
The clutch relies on the pressure between the pressure plate and flywheel. If the pressure is too low, due to weak springs, or worn surfaces, the new disks will be prone to fail. Oil from a bad rear main seal will wipe out clutch components, as well as an improperly adjusted clutch, or bad driving (not you though) On the hind side, overloading the clutch will wear it also. Shifting too early, bad brakes or bearings. Towing, or the wrong replacement parts. Do this, in high gear, on the highway, step on the throttle. Does the clutch slip? Too weak of pressure. Vibrations or chattering? wrong parts, Oil, or overheating from load. Burning smell? Something is loaded on the driveline or you need to get advice on clutch use. Just sayin for a newbee. Did you turn the surfaces when you changed the clutch? New pressure plate? Clutch disk? Proper Adjustment so it is not engaging? Parking brake not stuck? bearings or brakes hanging?
BMW Owners manual. 1998 BMW 318i 4DR E36 BMW
318i CONV E36 BMW 318is 2DR E36 BMW 323i 4DR E36 BMW 323i CONV E36
BMW 323is 2DR E36 ...data.bmrparts.com/bmwparts/1610.html have just checked this site out and the have a manual for yr bmw - hope this will help-
hi for main bearings it is stage 1 : 25nm leave for 10 mins then stage 2 its turn 53 degrees
for big end bearings it is stage 1 : 23nm leave for 10 mins then stage 2 its turn 70 degrees
hope this helps
The best clutch to buy would be one from BMW, but that would be expensive. So if you go with a pirate make sure it is a well known brand and that you get a garuntee.
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