Shogun pinin keeps burning the small check engine relay when i switch to ignition.
Hi guys, thanks for reading this post. we had the cam shaft, crankshaft oil seals and timing belt changed 2 days ago. there was also a ignition(connects to spark plug) coil that we thought was faulty and so the mechanic had a spare and he changed it. the car was running perfectly for the past two days and then all of sudden this afternoon when i started it, it started for a second or so and then cut off. It now turns the engine but does not start.
I realised the check engine light does not come on when i turn the key to ignition as it should come on and switch off after the cpu has checked all sensors.
After checking the fuses,I then realised the small 20 amp see through relay had burnt. it is saturday evening and with no access to parts shops, i decided to try and join the cut in that relay by pushing the wires together. the check engine light does come on but goes off within a split second and it burns that fuse sort of a relay.
could anyone guide me where to start looking for a short as i presume it is something that's shorting and thus burning the 20amp see through relay.
thanks for helping.
vishal
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Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
Fuses and relays. It could also be the switch is faulty. Does it keep cranking. or just the lights come on ready to start? In which case, check the ignition switch.
normally dont get clicking on a fuel pump normally its the starter selinoid that clicks can you hear the pump with ignition on or only when it starts i would replace the relay replaced first cheapest thing to replace first hope this helps ivan
Hi, if you're talking about the 10 amp fuse #12, pull out the starter relay and put in a fresh fuse. Try to start the truck and then check the fuse. If the fuse is OK, get a new starter relay. If the fuse burned without the relay, there is a short between the ignition switch and the starter relay. If you have a manual transmission, you can further isolate the short by pulling the connector off the switch above the clutch pedal. Put another fuse in and try again. If the fuse burns, the short is between the ignition switch and the clutch switch. If not, it's between the clutch switch and the starter relay. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
Hi, if you have no power at the coil, the sensors cannot cause that. Are you saying there is no positive voltage there or just that the timing pulses are not coming from the computer? Power is supplied to the coil by fuse 20 via the auto shutdown relay and the PCM. See diagram below. To answer your question, I've pasted some sensors tests below. The cam sensor signal is not generally used by the PCM for ignition timing but more for injector timing. If you are not getting ignition timing pulses, the crank sensor is suspect, as you have implied. If you are not getting positive voltage to the coil, suspect fuse 20 or the auto shutdown relay, or possibly the ignition switch itself. Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
Crank sensor tests:
Backprobe with a high impedance ohmmeter between the CKP sensor connector middle terminal and battery ground.
Verify that the resistance is less than 5 ohms. If the resistance is not as specified, repair or replace the wiring as necessary and continue the test.
With the ignition ON and the engine OFF , backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter between the sensor connector middle terminal and either of the end terminals.
Verify that a 5 volt or greater signal is present at one of the two terminals. If not as specified, repair or replace the wiring as necessary and continue the test.
With the ignition ON and the engine OFF , backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter between the sensor connector middle terminal and the end terminal that did not have the 5 volt or greater signal.
Crank the engine and verify that the voltage reading alternates between 0.0 and 5.0 volts or verify that the voltage reading is 2.5 volts (averaging voltmeters only).
If the voltage readings are not as specified, the sensor may be faulty.
Cam sensor checks
Make sure that the ignition is OFF , remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over by hand.
Verify that the distributor shaft turns. If the distributor shaft does not turn, the engine must be checked for proper mechanical operation.
Backprobe with a high impedance ohmmeter between the CMP sensor connector middle terminal and battery ground.
Verify that the resistance is less than 5 ohms. If the resistance is not as specified, repair or replace the wiring as necessary and continue the test.
With the ignition ON and the engine OFF , backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter between the sensor connector middle terminal and either of the end terminals.
Verify that a 5 volt or greater signal is present at one of the two terminals. If not as specified, repair or replace the wiring as necessary and continue the test.
With the ignition ON and the engine OFF , backprobe with a high impedance voltmeter between the sensor connector middle terminal and the end terminal that did not have the 5 volt or greater signal.
Crank the engine by hand and verify that the voltage reading alternates between 0.0 or 5.0 volts.
Install the distributor cap and crank the engine with starter. Verify that the voltage reading is 2.5 volts (averaging voltmeters only).
If the voltage readings are not as specified, the sensor may be faulty.
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