Inside light work when turn on but want work when door is open"

ARE YOU PARKED KEY OR KEY ON RUNNING.
SEE QUOTE PAGE32.
READ THE USERS GUIDE FREE IN THE GLOVE BOX
MINE 2010, DAY 1, I SET ALL LAMPS INSIDE TO DISABLED
THAT WAY NEVER COME BACK TO CAR WITH DEAD BATTERY NOW FOR 12 YEARS NOW, BY MY ACTS.
BUT MANUALS SWITCHES DO WORK.
This gets tricky with 3 switches in the car ,mine , 2 dome
and one on the head lamp lever.
even opening doors on mine, no dome lamp, by may settings, in the manual.
car run perfectly day or night ,correct?
one can say manual 2ways.]
at lever /button on dome.
or open any door is a manual act,
I disable every one allowed, by my needs. cover how in the guide
NO LED upgrades correct.?
mine the dome switches are on, off , auto, so I use off, and they never come on. ever.
on yours it is different PAGE 32 USERS GUIDE QUOTES,
"To protect the battery, the interior lights will
turn off automatically 15 minutes after the
ignition is moved to the LOCK position.
THIS SAVES BATTERY IF THEY FAIL.(MY COMMENT)
"This
will occur if the interior lights were switched
on manually or are on because a door is open.
This includes the glove compartment light
and the cargo area light.
To restore interior
light operation, either place the ignition in
the ON/RUN position or cycle the light
switch."

THIS IS A SUPER GOOD FEATURE,.
WRECKING $175 BATTERY IS NOT. CHEAP OR EVER FUN.

Try the link

https://www.google.com/search?q=2011+dodge+journey+%22rear+hatch+light%22+switch+location

..

Damaged key what can I do

contact lock smith should have suggestion.

The "ding" is made by the body control computer when the door is opened and the key is in the ignition or when the lights are left on and the door is opened. The only thing in common with the door speaker is that they happen to run through the same wiring harness to the door. Other than that, they are TOTALLY different circuits.

However, there is a possibility that the wires are broken in the umbilical that goes between the door and the body. The only way that these two things could be even remotely related, is if you have at least 2 broken wires in there.

NOTE: each circuit should be diagnosed separately. If it is found that there in fact is a broken wire inside the umbilical, ALL the wires in the umbilical should be inspected for damage. This may also fix the other problem, but not necessarilly.

A scan of your Body Control Computer should also be performed, even if not for any other reason than to clear any fault codes created by a possible broken wire.

Chances are the autolock doesn't work because it "sees" a door open. Check the plunger between the door and the frame of each door to see if the plunger is broken, bent, or otherwise not working.

BMW and Mercedes had the same problem. They changed the type of grease used to assemble the door latch mechanism.

WD40 Squirted into the lock area often does the trick.

Roll down the window and aim nozzle/straw at interior latch mechanism.

Put WD40 straw into key hole and squirt .

I think that there is micro switch inside the door on the dor lock mechanism.

The headlight, brake and turn signal all run out of the turn signal switch. this is what causing you to loose those items. the door is a clip that has broken inside the door that goes to the handle, you will have to take the door panel off to find the rod that is hanging

you have a bad drivers door latch, the micro switch inside is not telling the computer that the latch has been opened which would normally mean the door is open.