1998 Chevrolet K1500 Logo
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
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Brake pedal goes soft when engin is running on 1998 chevy 1500

Replaced master cylinder bled lines , no change still soft pedal when engine is running, hard pedal when engine is off, replaced vacum booster still no change

  • 2 more comments 
  • walleysteve Mar 15, 2009

    That is not the problem adjusting the rear shoes, let me start over and tell ya everything. 1998 chevy 1500 4x4. I was traveling home from a trip when i noticed the brake pedal went soft nearly goin all the way to the floor, 1st thought was the master cylinder was goin out, replaced master cylinder, and bled brakes w/o engine running, the pedal would get hard at top. as soon as you crank the vehicle pedal would go soft and nearly to the floor, 2nd thought was the vacuumn booster, replaced booster, no change.exchanged the master cylinder again bled brakes with engine running and still had soft pedal. drove truck down the road and still had soft pedal, bled brakes again, pulled rear wheels off and checked rear hubs they are not loose on pads. still have a soft pedal and nearly goes to the floor when applied. also changed out abs control from another vehicle that was stopping properly with hard pedal and it only recedes about a 1/4. any suggestions please help im at wits end

  • walleysteve Mar 16, 2009

    checked both front calipers no problem,if one of the calipers were goin out it would probaly pull to one side or the other.If you read all of the previous post i stated i bled it with engine running.... I have someone helping and not trying it by myself.

  • Anonymous Apr 29, 2009

    I have the same problem with Accent 1.6 GL. Please help.

  • Anonymous Mar 20, 2014

    3 new master cylinder.new fluid. bled brakes. solid fluid comming out of all four bleeders

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brghouston

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  • Posted on Jun 01, 2009
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If your rubber brake lines are from the factory those hoses can stretch when the brakes are applied. This same thing happened to me. I replaced the master cylinder, with little to no change. So then I changed the brake booster. And if you read the fine print if either the brake booster or the master cylinder go bad it can take the other with it. So if the rubber brake lines don't fix this I would look at replacing both the master cylinder and the brake booster at the same time. But if you would like to trouble shoot this issue a bit more you can clamp off just the rear brakes or just the front brakes or even clamp off 3 of 4 or if it might be a issue before it even hits the brakes them self you can clamp off all 4 of the brakes to see were the problem is. This is to test fewer components at once and to see if the issue is with the cylinders / calipers or hoses. This will help you determine the location of the problem faster and with out throwing parts at your truck and hopping it fixes the issue.

Dennis Mulford

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  • Posted on Mar 15, 2009
Dennis Mulford
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Pull your rear drums and inspect the shoes,you may have too addjust them out by hand too get the peddle you want

  • Dennis Mulford
    Dennis Mulford Mar 15, 2009

    you need the engine running when you beeld the brakes,and its easiser too do with two people,if your doing it by your self your need a hand vaccume pump

    also you may have a bad calipiar not coming out all the way that will cause a soft pedal

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My 1997 chevy 1500 z71 brakes suddenly going all the way to the floor. Checked brake fluid and it was low. Could be wheel cylinder? Master cylinder? or ?

well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.
  1. Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
  2. Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
  3. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
  4. Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
  5. Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.
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Got a 94' chevy 1500 having brake problems, and replaced the master cylinder and bled the lines. but the pedal is still not working right, the pedal when pushed with the truck running will just go to the...

With he engine running your pedal action is assisted greatly by the brake servo. The servo is a large diaphragm that is acted on by the suction delivered by a vacuum line from the the intake manifold. The fact that the pedal goes to the floor when the engine is running just shows how much assistance the engine suction provides to your foot pressure. It is obvious that you still have air in your system. I would suggest that you top up the master reservoir, start your engine and pump the brakes quickly until you feel some hard back pressure. This will ensure that the brake pistons have been fully extended. Starting with the most remote caliper (right rear) bleed off about half a pint of fluid. Ensure that no air is allowed to **** back in via the bleed nipple at any time. Refill the master reservoir. Next the left rear caliper, bleed off about a quarter of a pint. Refill reservoir. Bleed off a about quarter of pint from both front brakes. This should sort it out.
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Brake pedal goes to the floor only when engine is running. Pedal is perfect with engine off.

your power brake booster is blown out
the seal has a leak in it
run the truck for 3 minutes and shut it off. with the windows up listen carefully while you gently apply the brakes
listen for a hissing sound of air leaking.
the sound of these leaking is a very soft sound
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1998 Suburan brake pedal gushes air along the firewall.

you got it, the booster is leaking reducing the vacuum to the intake, replace it
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