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Anonymous Posted on Mar 14, 2009

89 s10 blazer no spark

Changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributer cap, roter, ignition coil, and new battery. Turns over but won't start. Getting fuel. Discovered I'm getting no Spark. What's next?

  • 2 more comments 
  • Anonymous Mar 16, 2014

    1993 gmc surburban still sounds like its not getting fire after changing spark plug, wires,cap and coil now what

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    I've chaned my spark plugs wires tps timming chain distributer cap roter button

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    STARTED MISSING AND DYING NOW IT CRANKS BUT NO SPARK

    CRANKS BUT NO SPARK

    CRANKS BUT NOT GETTING SPARK

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    It cranks but not getting spark I've put new spark plugs, wires,distributer, coil and rotor cap. .

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1 Answer

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  • Chevrolet Master 6,982 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 14, 2009
Anonymous
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There is no test for module in distributor, but they often cause this kind of problem. Also while in there, check the pickup coil wires to make sure they are intact.

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Ny 1989 chevy blazer S-10 V6 2WD won't st,art,

I don't think 3 months makes stale gas, maybe year old gas, but not your short time. And if not mistaken, I think you have throttle body injection on an '89 chevy, although chevy always was a little behind the curve on new improvements to cars. hint, hint.
The computer has everything to do with it. it controls ignition timing, it controls spark, it controls the fuel pump and the injectors. Since it won't start with starter fluid or gas, next step is to look into the ignition system. Check for spark on a couple of spark plug wires. If you have a blue, snapping spark, you can assume your ignition system is working well enough to start the engine. Take a spare spark plug or pull one of your plugs from engine, attach the plug wire onto it, and lay the plug on a metal piece of the top of engine-the spark plug hex and threads is the natural ground for the plug, so if you lay the threads on a metal piece, or hold it tight against a steel bolt, you can observe the spark jumping the gap, and no danger of getting shocked. But if you hold it, just in case, wear a glove or wrap a heavy cloth or rag around the wire. Remember, a blue energetic spark has to be seen to verify good ignition. Oh yes, you need a helper to crank the engine over while you watch for spark. If no spark, and you have a distributor, check the coil wires output at the end that connects to center top of distributor.Pull it from distributor and hold the metal end terminal no more than 1/4 inch from a ground source, a bolt or the frame, or an engine bracket. Helper has to crank the engine over, and watch for good blue spark. If no spark there-ignition: coil, crank position sensor (or maybe a pickup coil inside your distributor-same function), ignition control module, computer, and all the associated wiring.
If coil has spark, but none at plug wire ends, inspect closely the distributor cap and rotor. not passing current or shorting out there.
So the basics are, to run, the engine needs gas, air, compression, and a timely spark.
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Have you checked the HT leads? The main lead from the coil - take off a spark plug lead and plug that into the coil insted and see if you can get it to spark to the engine, if it will spark with this lead then the main lead is bust. also...There is a condenser on the ignition, it prevents the spark from going anywhere but the plugs, if this has failed you will have a weak intermittent spark - heres what it should look like (attached to the distributor or very close to it) - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=233&partnum=84UX&a=UK233-84UX - click the "i" button to get a bigger pic - make sure yours is properly connected before you get a new one. It's incredibly cheap so may as well replace it + its 21 years old and counting and probably the only original part of the ignition.
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