OIL ON TOP OF VALVE

Before head gasket replacement have you checked these
Intake Manifold Gaskets May Leak Coolant or Engine Oil
engine or leak. In some cases, an internal coolant leak may occur causing coolant to mix with the engine oil. Our technicians tell us that operating the engine with a coolant/oil mix can result in internal engine damage. Replacing the intake manifold gasket should correct these leaks.
Leaking Water Pump May Cause Coolant Loss and Overheating
A coolant leak may develop from the . The may overheat as a result of the coolant loss. A leaking water pump should be replaced.
Headgasket replacement
step 1. undo negative battery cable or completely remove battery and tray.
step 2. remove air cleaner and associated piping if it is in the way to allow access to head, drain cooling system and remove upper radiator hose.
step 3. remove top portion of exhaust manifold.
step 4. remove intake manifold and fuel injection rail as necessary
step 5. remove spark wires and valve cover.
step 6. remove drive belts and top timing cover before removing timing belt find all alignment marks and paint to improve your visibility and aid in reassembly if no marks are present remove spark plug # 1 and rotate until piston is at tdc and check timing mark on crankshaft that it is on 0 then paint the belt and cams anything that has teeth that the timing belt rides on make a mark to aid in reassembly even if you are replacing t-belt at least you can compare to new belt and transfer marks, release tension on t-belt tensioner and remove t-belt.
step 7. remove head bolts start loosening at inside and work outwards reemove head bolts and pay attention to sizing and placement.
carefully check for anything that is still attached to head and if free tap head with rubber or dead blow hammer to free from block and lift straight up so as not to ruin or bend any of the alignment pegs.
step 8. remove head gasket material with non-scratching tools or scrapers or buff pads made for that job. making note of where it was blown.
step 9. decide if you should send head to machine shop to have mating surface made flat again and also to have valves and related parts inspected or replaced. usually about $300-$400
step 10. inspect block remove all gasket material look for pitting or scarring also use straight edge to determine if it is straight or if it needs to be resurfaced by a machine shop.
step 11. install new headgasket and check fit. If all is good reassemble in reverse order of removal and I always like to replace crank seal ,cam seal, water pump, t-belt and tensioner also thermostat, drivebelts, spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, pcv valve, intake manifold ,exhaust manifold gaskets.
this is just a broad overview hope it helps you will have to get haynes manual or similar for head torque values and what not

Exhaust gas recirculator allows some exhaust gas to enter the intake manifold.

Your engine has an issue, on the cylinder with the wet spark plug, that is resulting in motor oil getting into the combustion chamber. The two main causes are a broken piston ring or worn valve guides/damaged valve guide seal. The former is a bigger issue as the pistons have to be removed to replace piston rings, which is a major undertaking and often reguires engine removal. The valve issue is significantly easier, which can be cured by what is called a "top overhaul". However, even a top overhaul is beyond the scope of a casual DIY pundit.

According to the service literature I read, the 2003 Montero Sport with the 3.0 or 3.5 L engine does not have O2 sensors listed even in the maintenance schedule. The 2.4 L engine has it on the exhaust manifold though.
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However, the following lists the par, though for before or after the catalytic converter:

http://www.partstrain.com/store/index.php?VN=4294967180+4294966587+4294964143+&Nr=AND(universal:0)&N=0&Ntt=Oxygen%20Sensor

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I think that $250 to $300 is reasonable if the Oxygen sensors are stuck in there with rust and the threads are preserved by the technician. Oxygen Sensor replacement can be tricky.
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Good luck on this repair.

Exhaust Manifold

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2.4L Engine

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   
   • Negative battery cable
   
   CAUTION
   Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative
   battery cable is disconnected to prevent possible deployment of the air bag.
   
   
   
2. Heat cowl from the exhaust manifold
   
3. Aspirator valve assembly, if equipped
   
4. Oil dipstick and guide
   
5. Oxygen (O2S) sensor connector and ground cable, if equipped
   
6. Exhaust pipe from the manifold
   
7. Exhaust manifold and gasket from the engine
   To install:
   
   
8. Install or connect the following:
   
   
   
   • Exhaust manifold. Torque the M8 mounting nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) and the
     M10 mounting bolts 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). starting from the middle and working
     outward.
     
   • O2S sensor connector and ground cable, if equipped
     
   • Exhaust pipe to the manifold. Torque the nuts to 35ft. (49 Nm).
     
   • Aspirator valve assembly, if removed
     
   • Heat cowl to the exhaust manifold. Torque the bolts to 117 inch lbs. (13
     Nm).
     
   • Negative battery cable
   
   
9. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.

3.0L and 3.5L Engines

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   
   • Negative battery cable
     
   • Exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds
     
   • Oil dipstick, guide and O-ring
     
   • Heat shields
     
   • Exhaust manifolds
   
   
2. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. Inspect the manifolds for cracks,
   flatness and/or damage.
   To install:
   
   
3. Install or connect the following:
   
   
   
   • New gasket and exhaust manifold. Torque the nuts to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm) on
     3.0L engines and 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) on 3.5L engines.
     
   • Heat shield, Torque the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
     
   • Exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Torque the nuts to 35ft. (49 Nm).
     
   • Oil dipstick, guide and new O-ring
     
   • Negative battery cable
   
   
4. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.

1. Remove the upper radiator hose. Remove the wiper module and support bracket.

1. Disconnect and plug the compressor outlet hose at the compressor and remove the bolt retaining the hose assembly to the right coil bracket. Cap the compressor outlet.
2. Remove the engine harness connector from the retaining bracket on the brake vacuum booster and detach the connector and transmission harness connector.
3. Disconnect the throttle valve cable from the throttle body and disconnect the heater outlet hose.
4. Remove the nut retaining the ground strap to the right cylinder head. Remove the upper stud and loosen the lower bolt retaining the heater outlet hose to the right cylinder head and position out of the way.
5. Remove the blower motor resistor. Remove the bolt retaining the right engine mount to the lower engine bracket.
6. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the EGR valve and tube. Remove the 2 bolts retaining the EGR valve to the intake manifold.
7. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Drain the crankcase and remove the engine mount through bolts.
8. Remove the EGR tube line nut from the right exhaust manifold and remove the EGR valve and tube assembly.
9. Disconnect the exhaust from the exhaust manifolds. Lower the exhaust system and support it with wire from the crossmember.
10. Position a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan, rearward of the oil drain hole. Raise the engine approximately 4 in. and insert 2 wood blocks approximately 2 1 / 2 in. thick under each engine mount. Lower the engine onto the wood blocks and remove the jack.
11. Remove the 16 bolts retaining the oil pan to the engine block and remove the oil pan.

It may be necessary to loosen, but not remove, the 2 nuts on the rear transmission mount and with a jack, raise the transmission extension housing slightly to remove the pan.

1. If necessary, remove the 2 bolts retaining the oil pickup tube to the oil pump and remove the bolt retaining the pickup tube to the main bearing stud spacer. Remove the pickup tube.

Fig. 3: Oil pan bolt torque sequence-4.6L engine (click over pic fo zoom).


Hpe helps (remember to rate this).

the weakest link from water entering engine is intake manifold losing its torque. their are four water ports right next to valve ports. two in front two at rear of intake manifold. they warp fairly easy.so check before re installing

if you are experiencing blow by, this could be a bad valve assembly or the spark plug may have poor threading. i would remove the head and take a look at the valves seals and springs.

According to the online manual at AutoZone, you need to remove the right front wheel, the front gravel shield, the exhaust manifold heat insulator, the exhaust manifold, and detach the oil pressure switch connector. The picture shows lifting the starter out from the top once it is unbolted.

I've changed the starter on a '95 with a 4 cylinder engine, and the top bolt was a bugger to get to, requiring two extensions and a universal on my ratchet set. Good luck!

96 escort 1.9L




Engine Components
Item Part Number Description 1 6766 Oil Filler Cap 2 6A548 (8 Req'd) Valve Cover Bolt 3 6582 Valve Cover 4 — Exhaust Manifold Shield-to-Exhaust Manifold Nut (4 Req'd) 5 9A462 Exhaust Manifold Shield 6 — Exhaust Manifold Shield Stud (4 Req'd) 7 9430 Exhaust Manifold 8 9454 Exhaust Manifold Nut 9 9448 Exhaust Manifold Gasket 10 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Fine Thread), Short (4 Req'd) 11 — Exhaust Manifold Stud, Long (1 Req'd) 12 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Medium Thread), Short (1 Req'd) 13 6518 Valve Spring Retainer Key 14 6514 Valve Spring Retainer 15 6513 Valve Spring and Damper, Intake 16 6C515 Valve Tappet Guide Plate Retainer 17 6571 Valve Stem Seal 18 6513 Valve Spring, Exhaust 19 12405 Spark Plug 20 6269 Camshaft Thrust Plate 21 — Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt (2 Req'd) 22 — Cup Plug 23 6B273 Camshaft Oil Flow Control Rod 24 6K292 Camshaft Front Seal 25 6256 Camshaft Sprocket 26 6278 Camshaft Sprocket Washer 27 6K252 Camshaft Sprocket Retaining Bolt 28 6L269 Camshaft Sprocket Key (5 x 18) 29 6250 Camshaft 30 6051 Head Gasket 31 6A008 Cylinder Head to Block Dowel 32 6010 Cylinder Block 33 6507 Intake Valve 34 6505 Exhaust Valve 35 6049 Cylinder Head 36 — Intake Manifold Stud (7 Req'd) 37 17A084 Engine Lifting Eye 38 — Engine Lifting Eye Bolt (2 Req'd) 39 9439 Intake Manifold Gasket 40 — Bolt 41 9723 Accelerator Cable Bracket 42 9424 Intake Manifold 43 — Intake Manifold Nut (7 Req'd) 44 9D476 EGR Valve Gasket 45 — Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Bolt (2 Req'd) 46 9D475 EGR Valve 47 — Fuel Injection Supply Manifold Bolt
(2 Req'd) 48 9F593 Fuel Injector 49 9D930 Fuel Charging Wiring 50 6786 Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket 51 — Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket Bolt 52 6754 Oil Level Indicator Tube 53 6750 Oil Level Dipstick 54 9D280 Fuel Injection Supply Manifold 55 — Vacuum Fitting 56 9E498 Main Emission Vacuum Control Connector 57 — Vacuum Tap 58 — Vacuum Hose 59 9B989 Throttle Position Sensor 60 — Screw and Washer 61 9F782 Throttle Position Sensor Gasket 62 — Throttle Body Bolt (4 Req'd) 63 — Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Bolt
(2 Req'd) 64 9F715 Idle Air Control Valve 65 9F670 Idle Air Control Gasket 66 9E926 Throttle Body 67 9E936 Throttle Body Gasket 68 — Vacuum Fitting 69 — Camshaft Position Sensor Screw 70 6B288 Camshaft Position Sensor 71 8255 Water Hose Connection Gasket 72 — Water Hose Connection Bolt (3 Req'd) 73 8592 Water Hose Connection 74 8575 Water Thermostat 75 6065 Cylinder Head Bolts 76 6500 Valve Tappet 77 6K512 Valve Tappet Guide Plate 78 6564 Rocker Arm 79 6A528 Rocker Arm Seat 80 6A527 Rocker Arm Bolt (8 Req'd) 81 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket Bolt
(3 Req'd) 82 18827 Noise Filter Condenser 83 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bolt (4 Req'd) 84 12259 Spark Plug Wire Set 85 12029 Ignition Coil 86 12043 Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket A — Tighten to 5-12 Nm (4-9 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 21-26 Nm (16-19 Lb-Ft) D — Tighten to 2-10 Nm (1.5-7 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 8-13 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) F — Tighten to 40-55 Nm (30-41 Lb-Ft) G — Tighten to 16-20 Nm (12-15 Lb-Ft) H — Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft) I — Tighten to 8-10 Nm (6-8 Lb-Ft) J — Tighten to 8-11 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) K — Tighten to 23-30 Nm (17-22 Lb-Ft) L — Tighten to 20-40 Nm (15-30 Lb-Ft) M — Tighten to 4.5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) N — Tighten to 18-26 Nm (13-19 Lb-Ft)

I can tell about a couple of odors from oils that are quite indicative of the places where they oil is leaking into the exhaust though.

You've got a few internal places where oil can get into the engine and even some can get into the combustion chambers. They have distinctive odors and can really help diagnose the cause or reason for the oil consumption.

First let's start with the "sweet-smells".

This means that the oil have gone through the combustion process along with the engine's fuel (gasoline or diesels too!). It is about the same smell you get whiffing the exhaust on a 2-cycle engine with gas-oil premix.

Places where this CAN happen:

1) Cylinder walls ie; piston rings, worn or broken.
2) PCV system where the oil is sucked into the manifold under vacuum and is entrained into the combustion chamber in the normal air-flow to the engine for combustion.
3) Intake runner-to-head surface gasket(s) where the intake can actually **** oil from the cam tray area or the inner valley between the heads and the intake manifold.
4) Occasionally from changing spark plugs in "well" type plug chambers that let the plug get very close to the head through the head casting. Taking a plug out and letting the collected oil fall into the cylinder is usually a temporary situation, but can scare you when it happens.
5) Cracked head or blown head gasket: this usually has to happen where the head has a high pressure passageway for the oil to travel through the head to get to a cam tower on top of the head.
6) Now - here's something that's gonna get debated, fer sure! ONLY the intake valves can leak past their stem seals and allow oil to travel down the stem onto the combustion process. Remember that I am speaking or "sweet" oil smell here.


Now some of the "not sweet" or bitter oil smell:

1) Exhaust guides or stem seals on the EXHAUST valves ONLY can cause a very acrid smell of nasty, eye watering and cough-inducing stink.
2) CVCC or pre-combustion chambers can also cause this problem. The Honda CVCC engines were notorious for this! The auxiliary valve can leak oil into the pre-chamber and then it opens the valve and dumps the burning mess into the main cylinder head area and the results are a bad BAD stink and lots of white/blue smoke.
3) RARELY...very rarely the exhaust port AFTER the exhaust valve seat can become perforated and allow oil to get into the exhaust stream. It does NOT burn here - rather it just cooks-off with a very bad smell.

So-o-o-o

Acrid oil smell - the oil has NOT gone through the combustion process in the cylinder head but is rather "cooked" into a stinky odor. It may or may not smoke too much too.

Sweet oil-burning smell - oil that has been burned as part of the combustion process in the combustion chamber on one or more or even all cylinders.