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I have a 94 Ford Taurus. I recently took it to a place to get a free diagnostic check hoping to see what was wrong and get an estimate. They were able to get codes off the reading but their system only goes as far as a 96 or newer. The employee gave me the codes and suggested looking them up online. I have done so but I have no knowledge of cars so I am hoping someone is able to explain what may need fixed based off of these codes. P0316 P0300 P0301 P0303 P0171 P0351 P0353 P0420 P2195 and P0306. Thank you for any answers.

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  • Sarah Ross Apr 24, 2013

    Yes I did have the wrong year. You were right. I was stressed out when I posted this and wrote the wrong year number in the question. It is a 2004 not a 94. Thank you for seeing that. I don't know how to clear codes. I cannot drive the car. The day something went wrong with it the light had been on, I was taking my roommate to work (about a 20 min drive) near the end of it there was a fuel smell and the car began to lose power so we pulled over and shut it off for a few minutes thinking maybe it was overheating. When we started it up again, it wouldn't go much over 20mph. I was able to get it home and I haven't driven it since until taking it to get a diagnostic.

  •  Stephen
    Stephen Apr 24, 2013

    Ok, well that explains that. You have to use a scanner to clear the codes on cars built after 1995. Based on what you have said, you will probably need to have the car towed to a shop. The codes from 300 to 316 involve missfires on various cylinders. Code 351 and 353 are for a problem with the ignition coil. Code 171 and 420 involve a problem with one of the O2 sensors and the catalytic converter which could be related to the 300 codes. And code 2195 is also for an O2 sensor problem. O2 sensors would not cause the engine to not run. You may have a dead coil, or it could be a problem with the wiring or other sensors that involve the coil. The double overhead cam engine uses one coil for each cylinder, the other engine uses one coil for all 6.

  •  Stephen
    Stephen Apr 24, 2013

    You could replace the coil and hope for the best, but it really should be tested which would require a book and special tools.

  •  Stephen
    Stephen Apr 24, 2013

    Once the engine is running again, the codes would be cleared and then rechecked to see if any come back.



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Quite a long list of codes. The first thing to do is clear the codes and see how many return after driving the car for a few days.
The codes that include 301 - 306 are for cylinder misses on the selected cylinders. 301 is cylinder one, and so on.
But my first problem is the year of the car. Ford uses two digit codes for most cars built before 1996. Including yours.
The three and four digit codes you listed look more like OBD2 codes for models built after 1995.
So before you proceed, you need to verify the codes you were given are from your car and it is in fact a 1994.

Posted on Apr 24, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Daniel Davis

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: 12 codes; 90174, p0171, p0175,p0300,p0301, p0302,

I would be very hesitant about just going in and replacing parts/sensors, especially those diagnosed from Electronic Control Module (ECM) Diagnostic Trouble codes (DTC's) alone, as quite often when multiple codes are present, they are often related to a songle malfunction/failure (Such as coil codes, and O2, rich/lean codes, etc...) - A p0171 and 0174 code is not indicative of a faulty MAF sensor - it is a code set when a lean condition is detected within the vehicle's exhaust...often caused by vacuum leaks, EGR valve malfunctions, BAC/IAC ( Bypass/Idle air control) valve malfunction, DPFE sensor malfunction, or the MAF "hot wire" is dirty, and can be cleaned with the correct cleaner, but instead of replacing a $250 MAF sensor; only to later find out that if you had the vehicle repaired by a trained technician, a $3 vacuum hose and a $50 ignition coil had initiated the multiple DTC's - So, sometimes it does pay to use a trained technician; especially with so many codes present - Like I said - If I were going to do the work myself, I would erase all the codes (Disconnect battery cable for about 10 mins - this will also erase the block/learn ECM settings and it may search for idle for a bit, but will straighten out with time - reconnect battery and start the car - then after the light re-illuminates, re-pull the codes, and most importantly test the sensors/parts indicated by the DTC's before replacing anything - that is if you want to fix it the most cost effective way possible, but, if you have plenty of money to waste you could always just go replace whatever the DTC's tell you is out of specifications, regardless of the cause...this might fix it, but may not as well - if you got lots of money and feel lucky it's the way to go - if not, test those parts and sensor before replacing them - there is a process for testing each of them....Thanks

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks you so very much. The car was shaking and making a knocking sound and running very poorly and now the engine is locked I had in towed home."

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