I initially was finding that my car was not starting in the morning where it would have to be jumped I didn't think much of it until I had to have it jumped the same day again. I went and put my car on the battery charger over night and it said it was already maxed out so I left it alone till the next day. I actually had to have the car jumped again to get it going. After that I went ahead and used a meter to check the battery while it was off and it indicated 13v and then I tested the alternator by turning the vehicle on and that tested at a 14v (max of the meter). The car would have difficulty starting. I could hear it turn and then it would stop. If I would wait a little and try again it would repeat. I went ahead and changed the starter on the car and that didn't fix the issue. All the fuses that I know of are not blown. I went ahead and tried to pull the codes off the computer via connection under the steering wheel and it indicated no codes. There should have at least be one code saying that I needed to change the oxygen sensor and that code didn't pop up. After attempting to turn the vehicle on it would only make clicking sound. No turns most of the time. If I leave key in the on position the engine light will flash after attempting to start. The flashes indicate a code, the code is equivalent that of the PCM is not getting direct power. That would explain why I couldn't pull the codes off of it. If I am correct, I am left with two options that I know of, replace the engine harness(dealership discontinued), or replace PCM ($470 @ dealership). I am no mechanic so if anyone has any idea's please throw them at me.
SOURCE: Truck isn't starting. Starter
you have to have 12.4 volts showing on your battery to even attempt to start your car,, you need to completely charge the battery , ( if you have a walmart near you, they will not only charge it for you, but they run a Load test , which tells how the battery holds up under a Load , such as when trying to start the vehicle,, ) I would venture to say that you have a bad battery ,, it only take one bad cell to make it pretty much worthless, Plus the alternator is being over worked trying to charge it as it runs the car for you after starting,, ( note, never disconnect the battery when the car is running to check to see if the alternator is working, that will result in bad problems , such as computer stoppage) once your sure you have a fully charged, good battery in place, use a volt meter to check ,, start the vehicle and place the meter probe's on the battery terminals,, you should get a reading of no less than 13.5 volts, and should see that up to 14.5 volts on the meter, if you do the alternator is doing its job.
Testimonial: "Thanks for the help!"
SOURCE: 05 Dodge Magnum went from 60 - 0mph in 0.0 seconds flat!!!
Sounds like you need a new key to me. When they start and die like that, the security system is not seeing a good key. This has to be done at a Dodge or Chrysler dealership. They can cut a new key and fob combo their as well as program them with their scan tool. It will cost about $200.00 to do this. The two cranks to start is a weak fuel pressure regulator. Probably located on the the fuel pump. May be serviced seperate now from the fuel pump assembly. Ask the dealer they will know.
SOURCE: Dodge Avenger 96 2.0L Won't Start
my wife had a 96 chrysler cirrus with the 2.6 v6 engine. the distributer was under the intake manifold and had the cam position senser in it. this is the hottest area in the engine, very bad engineering, replaced the distributer four times, each one averaging four months, spent $2500, finally sold car and would never buy another chrysler product.
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