Knock started couple weeks before it finally stopped pulling. when it started losing power the knock was a little louder and it was struggling to get over 20 mph. once it did it was ok but would lose it again randomly. it got to where i smelt rubber burning some and complete loss of acceleration. the knock sounds like its coming from lower timing cover. when i start it now it has a very low idle with a knock. i know it has jumped time and I have replaced all timing components minus the water pump.
Sounds like the timing belt tensioner roller is locking up. If the tensioner is locked up, damage to the belt has occurred and loss of timing. Do not operate engine till you investigate the timing belt components (belt tensioner). The age of your Camry warrants replacement of the belt tensioner. Also the belt tension has to be set to correct belt tension. 1/8 inch belt deflection between Cam Pulley and Crankshaft Pulley.
Depends if it is a no tolerance motor, which means bent valves.
It isn't in this model
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SOURCE: loud knocking coming from lower timing cover area 1995 toyota camry 2.2
I do think that loose key and keyway could cause the knock. It would also explain the loss of power, due to the engine timing not being spot on.
A knocking big end or main bearing would not improve at higher revs, it would get worse.
Act soon before the keyway in the crankshaft itself is too badly damaged, by removing the crankshaft pulley, lower timing belt cover, and belt guide. You can then get a precise idea of what exactly is worn. This may assist
http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/eg1.pdf
You may actually have to find an oversize key, for a neat fit in the crankshaft. It may be necessary to file or grind it to fit. Engineering supply houses stock them, eg
http://engtooling.com/webshop2/
SOURCE: 1993 Toyota Camry. Auto Tran. 4 cyl. No kick down at speed
its in the kik down cable its sticking
SOURCE: Toyota Camry idles then dies
It is NORMAL for the engine computer to have to "Relearn" how to idle the engine after a battery replacement. This should only be temporary and will go away after a few trips.
If it does not go away, or if the Check Engine light is coming on, it will require diagnosis to determine the cause. Nobody can tell you if the problem is related to your recent work until the cause of the problem is located.
Poor idling and stalling on deceleration can be caused by anything from a bad Idle Speed Control motor (ISC)
to low fuel pressure (Clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump) to a bad connection in the A/C clutch sensing circuit. (Kicks the idle up when the A/C compressor is running)
SOURCE: it loses power on acceleration and serious loss of power on hills
sounds like a clogged fuel filter. you need to have the engine pressure checked for leaks, you can rent the pressure checker at autozone, it connects to ur radiator and u pump pressure into the cooling system if u find water leaking around the head u know u have a blown head gasket. if ok then check the cylinder compression should beable to rent this also. it screws into the spark plug holes has a gauge on it. alternator problem w/ the light is probaly you need to tighten the belt.hope this helps!!!
Testimonial: "thanks very much. i'll check that out."
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Knocking is not good on motors running them even with a light knock will get worse, Spun main bearings, rod bearings, wrist pins, valve lash, valve seats dropping, overheating low on oil. that's just off top of head.
First thing I would do is a compression check. If it is out of time then your compression would be all off.
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