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2000 CDX Daewoo, A/C fine before going go shop. installed spark plugs and wires, coil, and some type of gasket. Car at shop for about 2 wks,(waiting on parts I ordered), Turned on air, blow out HOT, brother tried to fill with Freon, the gauge said DANGER, TOO HIGH. Filled up with Freon before, never had a problem. Can hear the compressor running, just blows out hot. HELP!! I'm in FLORIDA!
Over filling it was a big mistake, so was guessing. the freon is added by weight, from empty. not volume. if the compressor spins, and no cold air , then its a big problem the only tiny problem to cause this would be leaves packed in evaporator coil. (deep inside air box in cab) take it to a shop before you damage the compression and fill the whole thing full of metal chucks wrecking everything, at once $$$$ do not let the compressor run, if it dont get cold. do not. get it serviced.
On the passenger side of the engine compartment near the radiator you will see a coolant control valve that has heater hoses running from it to the heater core inside vehicle.This is probably going bad.You can clamp off the hoses with some pliers while it is acting up and see if this stops the heat.If it does then it is probably bad.
here is what you do. look on the passenger side front near the bottom of the radiator. there you will see the dccv or dual coolant control vavle. it will have your two heater hoses running to it and another hose from the radiator under it . once you have identified it , feel and look around it for any signs of leaking. barring any leaks, disconnect the connector, turn the ac/engine on and usining a tester , test for voltage on each of the three wires.if both outer wires have no current ( the middle wire yellow- will have current) then your problem is the control panel. if the control panel is not a navigation it is possible to easily repair it. replacing it can run from 600.00 to 1500.00 depending on who you goe to. oh by the way its still some data that you aint looked at. holla back if you need more help or a repair of the a/c control panel.
ymeadows: If you have properly re-charged your A/C system to the correct pressure and do not get cold air coming out of your cabins vents, then you have a clog somewhere in the A/C system. This may be caused by a dirty orifice tube or expansion valve (same part different name) or the clog could be in the evaporator or condenser. I would not continue to use your A/C until you locate the source of your problem as this may cause over-stressing of other critical A/C components. If you are mechanically inclined and familiar with how A/C systems work, I would start with replacing the orifice tube or expansion valve. These can be on the high or low side of the A/C system and varies from one make and model to another. PLEASE VOTE FOR THIS SOLUTION IF YOU FOUND THIS INFORMATION HELPFUL, THANKS,
Several- The system should hold freon for years without leaking. There are pressure switches and they cut off the compressor with an undercharge and an overcharge. You need guages to measure the charge. There are testers the A/C shops have called "sniffers" which can detect a leak. If you have no leak then you need a technician to add or remove freon to get the concentration right. Or you need guages.
you need to have it diagnosed by a professional. These are complicated systems even to a trained tech. You may be over or under charged, have a clogged expansion valve, have a leak or many other issues. This model has a rcv refrigerant control valve inside the compressor which regulates the pressure of the compressor. If you notice the compressor never shuts off like conventional auto a/c's do the only time the clutch works is when you turn it on or off. Can be complicated.
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Find your spark plugs blow compressed air around the plug to get rid of any dirt.Spray some nut buster type spray down by the threads on the plug. If your car has spark plug wires replace them one at a time. If you have coils on top of the plugs back off the two screws a little at a time so the coil housing doesn\'t cock and break. After the old plugs have soaked for about ten minutes put a socket on the plug turn the plug out about a half a turn and tighten back up then back out two turns and go in one. There is carbon on the threads and if you just take them out it could damage the aluminum head.To get to some plugs on a V6 they are under the intake plenum. Remove plenum and re install with new gasket later (It\'s easy). Take your new plugs and make sure thy are platinum or better and gap them for your engine.Put antiseze on the threads. Install the plugs by hand to make sure they start threading right and then torque down.Change air filter if needed
To do a "Tune-up" you will need 6 spark plugs, a throttle body gasket, an air filter, an air compressor, a blow gun, a magnetic pick-up tool and a socket set with ratchet and extensions.
You must remove the intake air resonator, the #3 timing belt cover, the accelerator cable, the throttle control motor connector, the throttle position sensor connector, the accelerator pedal position sensor connector, the throttle body bracket and the throttle body. Then remove the spark plug cables and the ignition coils. You will then crack the spark plugs loose 1/4 turn and use the air compressor and blow gun to blow the debris out of the spark plug tubes so it does not enter the combustion chamber when the spark plugs are removed. Then remove the spark plugs. You will need the magnetic pick-up tool to fish the plugs out of the tubes once they are completely unscrewed.
Install new spark plugs and torque them to 13 ft.lbs (18 Nm)
Install throttle body with nw gasket. Install all other parts removed and connect all connectors.
Install intake resonator and new air filter.
This isn't fun. First make sure the engine is cool [ could strip the threads in the head if hot ], then you will need to remove the 7 milimeter headed screw that holds the coil-s in, remove the electrial connector, then carefuly twist the coil to loosen the boot from the spark plug and lift up, if you have air availble , [ it would be good to blow the holes out - other wise dirt and junk may drop into the cylinder], use a long flex joint plug scocket to remove the spark plug. At this point I recommend you replace the boots on the coils, they degrade like igntion wires on a distrubtor type system. Gap the new plugs, install to the proper torque = 13 foot pounds. This is very important as if they are over tightened they could strip, or too loose, they could begain moving and blow out of the head, This is real commom with these motors, [ aftermarket companies make a self tapping spark plug for this ]. reinstall the coils.
A very common proplem with this engine is the coil packs sit on top of the spark plugs with a approx 4 inch boot to the spark plug. Especially when there is wet weather moisture will get the the spark plug hole and when the vehicle gets up to temp the moisture will atomize and ground out the spark plug. Sometimes it will not even need to get hot and once it starts missing won't go away.
You will need to run a scan to determine which hole is misfiring. Then disconnect that coil and remove the one small bolt retaining itand pull it up out of the hole. Then take compressed air and blow out the bottom of the hole to dry it out. Re-install coil and your problem should have gone away. If you have a scanner sometimes just clearing the codes and the miss will go away. Be careful taking it to a shop as most shops will just sell you with the fact that you have a bad coil and have it fixed in the process of selling you and installing a new coil of hey maybe they will just blow it out and seeing as it's fixed you now buy into the fact that they replaced a "bad coil". That is not to say that sometimes it is just a bad coil and nothing else will fix it.
v8 triton is the same motor as the v10 with just 2 more cylinders so v10 or 5.4 same thing will apply.
To do the job to factory specs, you'll also need a torque wrench--a little 3/8" drive one that can handle 8-20 N-m and will fit in tight spaces is the way to go--some anti-seize compound for the spark plug threads, some silicone grease for the O-rings on the coils, and a source of compressed air. I really needed the compressed air. There was a bunch of dirt in the rear plug holes on both sides I wouldn't have wanted in my engine. To get access to everything, remove the 10 mm bolt on either side of the resonator, release the four spring clips on the air filter box, release the the air filter box cover from the hooks on the engine side, then lift the front of the resonator to remove the plastic pin from the rubber grommet at the front of the resonator and work the resonator out of the rubber gasket that connects it to the throttle body. There is no clamp holding the resonator to the throttle body gasket, it just has a friction fit. Set the whole resonator/hose/air filter box top assembly aside. Stuff a clean shop rag in the throttle body gasket to keep dust from blowing into the throttle body. Remove the air filter and put it in a clean spot for the same reason. You may want to remove the left hand Allen screw on the resonator bracket and loosen the right hand screw so you can swivel the resonator bracket up out of the way to access the #1 coil nut with a socket. Do one coil/plug at a time so there is no way you can drop a part in a cylinder! Unplug the connector to the coil by pushing down on the release on the top of the plug and sliding them out of the coil. After removing the 10 mm nut that holds each coil in place, use compressed air to blow out all the dust around the coil, then remove the coil (pull up gently with a little twisting motion back-and-forth) and blow all the dust around the spark plug out so you don't get anything nasty down in the cylinders. Your OEM plugs are NGK ZFR6F-11G, gapped at 0.042-0.044, Use the anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads so you can get them out next time. Finger-thread the plugs until they are snug, then torque them to 20 N-m. A thin coat of the silicone grease goes on the O-ring on the coil to make it easier to install in the cylinder head and to make the O-ring last longer. Install the coil on the plug, then put the 10 mm nut back on to fasten the coil down. Torque the coil nut to 8 N-m. Re-connect the connector, and go on to the next plug. If you have the right tools, this job is easier than doing it with an old distributor/plug wires setup, and the whole thing will cost you less than $20 including the plugs, the anti-seize and the silicone grease.
Good luck and hope this helps
oil is non conductive so I doubt that's the problem, but the oil leak should be fixed to reduce problems down the road. as for the misfire could be a couple things, fouled plug(s), a plug wire(s) that has cracks, or even valves that are not seating which i doubt from your explanation. I would change your plugs and wires first, and fix oil leak. if this does not fix the issue there are other things going on.
have you changed the ignition wires? perhaps firing order crossed? if not coil pack or ignition wires faulty how do you know it is not "FIREING" on 1 & 4 have you tested it with a spark tester tool???
these cars go through coil packs regularly as the packs overheat due to their position on the end of the engine. I have 3 lanos and have replaced all coil packs at around 90,000 k's.
Hope this helps.
When the gasket goes bad, the engine will leak oil like crazy, which is what mine is doing at the moment.
As far as I
know, it's really easy to replace the head gasket, which is something
I'm in dire need of myself. You just unscrew the bolts, take the top
part off, replace the gasket, and screw it back together.
I have a service manual, if you'd like to e-mail me..I can forward it to you.
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