1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Apr 10, 2013

Master cylinder to drivers side rear wheel on 91 cutlass ciera

Which line on master cylinder

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 10, 2008

SOURCE: repalce front driver power window motor - 1993 cutlass ciera

Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.

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Anonymous

  • 6982 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 30, 2009

SOURCE: 1990 ciera cutlass no fule to the injecters fuel

Test procedure on that is a bit involved. You will need a volt/ohmeter and an injector harness test light. Instructions in haynes are pretty much from gm so they are a bit better than with some other cars.

Anonymous

  • 173 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2009

SOURCE: 91 cutlass supreme. drivers side window will not

Check for broken wires in the rubber boot in the door jam.. Iv'e found so many break from the wires bending back and forth from the door opening and closing..the circut uses more than two wires for up and down operations of the motor .and they always seem to be broken. good luck

snafu86

Jeremy Nottingham

  • 193 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 20, 2010

SOURCE: 90 Cutlass Ciera wagon rear brakes lock up

There is a per portioning valve to even the pressure from front to back. This can become stuck. Linings installed correct? Air in rear brake lines.

BuzzFlewhart

buzz flewhart

  • 655 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 16, 2010

SOURCE: i have an 88 cutlass ciera with a lot of rust on the doors

Contact a salvage yard. They can tell you.

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

How easy is it to replace a leaking brake line under the driver's side door on a 1995 oldsmobile cutlass ciera?

In most cases on these older GM vehicles it is much easier to replace the lines from the master cylinder all the way to the rear wheels. You should be able to find brake lines that are preferred and have the correct fitting for what you need to do. Compression fittings are a definite No No!

some things to check ahead of time.
1. Do all the bleeder screws open? If not you may be replacing wheel cylinders and calipers.
2. Are the brake hoses cracked? If they are might as well replace them at the same time.
3. Are the pads and shoes in good shape. If they are getting thin might as week replace them as well.

Just about every GM that I get in the shop with rusted brake lines to the rear end up with a $800 +/- bill. 3 hours labor, 20+ feet of line, proportioning valves (later models), fittings, wheel cylinders. And a bleed and flush.

The lines don't have to look pretty they just have to work!

good luck and let us know how it goes.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

0helpful
1answer

How easy is it to replace a leaking driver's brake line on a 1995 cutlass ciera?

In most cases on these older GM vehicles it is much easier to replace the lines from the master cylinder all the way to the rear wheels. You should be able to find brake lines that are preferred and have the correct fitting for what you need to do. Compression fittings are a definite No No

Some things to check ahead of time
1. Do all the bleeder screws open? If not you may be replacing wheel cylinders and calipers.
2. Are the brake hoses cracked? If they are might as well replace them at the same time.
3. Are the pads and shoes in good shape. If they are getting thin might as week replace them as well.
4. Do all the brake lines you need to replace come loose from the hoses, cylinders, master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc.

Just about every GM that I get in the shop with rusted brake lines to the rear end up with a $800 +/- bill. 3 hours labor, 20+ feet of line, proportioning valves (later models), fittings, wheel cylinders. And a bleed and flush.

The lines don't have to look pretty they just have to work!

good luck and let us know how it goes.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

1helpful
2answers

Lost brakes/ fluid leaking at right rear wheel.

remove and replace the wheel cylinders on both rear wheels as it is generally not a good idea to try and reclaim them. (If one is leaking then the other one will be seeping as well). As there will be oil on the linings it is necessary to replace them as well or you will have grabbing brakes/ no brakes and side skids in heavy braking
2helpful
2answers

Bleeding sequence for 91 nisson 240sx

always start with the farthest cylinder from the master cylinder and work your way to the nearest, finishing with the master cylinder itself.
0helpful
1answer
0helpful
2answers

I had brakes checked, they were good. rotated wheels tires ,rear brakes lock up . Could mechanic have damaged cylinders inspecting brakes.

no, but he could have disturbed dust that can cause the brakes to lock. He might have also loosened the adjuster. Take drums off and reinspect for dust, fluid leaks, and adjustment. You could also try backing up and braking several times to let the brakes adjust up tighter.
0helpful
1answer
0helpful
2answers

1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cierra, brakes went to the floor with no warning and the Brake light came on-previous day there was a stange smell while stopped at red light . What could the problem be?

I'd be willing to bet that a brake line has rusted through, somewhere near the brake rotors or the exhaust. The smell was probably burning brake fluid. Check the fluid level in the resevior, If it's low, top it off and with the car off, pump the brakes and look for the puddle under the car. That should point you in the direction of the leak. Also check the wheel cylinders. This would require removing the rear wheels and brake drums. A bad master cylinder could also be the cause. If you don't have any fluid loss, i'd suspect the master.
0helpful
1answer

Brake problem

Here's what i would do, open the bleed nipples let gravity bleed for an hour checking for fluid (do not pump) just open and leave alone, if nothing bleed lines at master if still no pressure or fluid at caliper then replace master.
3helpful
1answer

A rusted brake line

Kris! Your in luck, that is way to high. You can replace it your self for about 20 bucks and a little work. A brake line and brake fuild you can replace and bleed out the one side; don't let the master cylinder go dry or it may take a little to do it.
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