Eating alternators mitsubishi shogun 1994 2.5td gls

was not on before the new alt,? is alt new or used.?
or came on only after the new ALT?????????
my guess, is 2 failures.! (one ignored and 2nd grew)
on with engine running, guess yes.
Good question and is same answer on all cars.
1: engine rpm too low, what is yours (below 80 rpm)
2: fan belt slips. bad tension pulley (weak and old???)
3: Alt bad, or its wires bad.
4: brake level low, (@MC) or hand brake switch stuck on, or other brake failures. a plenty, scan the PCM and ABS if you have ABS.
id not drive it with the brake lamp on (Savvy?)
the battery light is really the ALT charge lamp.
it glows anytime the Charge system can not charge the battery
if you drive far like that, the engine will stall and not crank.

5: the horn fuse power the alternator, so check the horn fuse
10amp , key on, 12vdc on both sides of fuse is needed/
fyi: the meter fuse runs the charge lamp, if said lamp is dead bingo.
6: fact 2, the PCM does NOT run the Alternator on the 3.2L .
7: alternator case not grounded right.
8: battery is bad, causing alternator to drop off line
9: battery cables bad, at the 4ends or they are bad.
10: the plug on the rear of alt is bad or its wires or pins rusty.


brakes:
the brake lamp has 3 inputs ("OR" logic) master cylinder level low.
the hand brake lever and the EBCM (electronic brake control module)
a technician unplugs each to see what causes the error.
if you unplug mC wire and hand brake wire
then the EBCM is UNHAPPY, scan it.

The ECU has no control on the voltage. Does your vehicle have a separate voltage regulator? If so that's your fault. A lot of alternators have the regulator built into them. The alternator needs to be put on a test rig away from the vehicle and the output tested, this will eliminate the vehicle, You could disconnect the wiring to the alternator, run three fly leads to the alternator and to a separate battery and run the engine and test the voltage on the spare battery. Wire 1: Battery neg to case of alternator Wire 2: Battery pos to + terminal on alt (the thick wire) Wire 3: Battery pos through a 5 watt bulb to the ind terminal (ignition light) 17 volt will blow another battery for sure.

Wouldn't be a fuse, but it seems as if the alternator is still not putting out normal power, or else your battery has a problem taking a charge. Better have the battery tested for a dead cell. also see what a voltmeter says about alternator output now. If you have an electrical problem in the wiring somewhere or in the alt. charging controls, then possibly one or more of the diodes in the alternator may got burnt out. That means the alternator puts out less power.
On some newer cars, the engine computer, pcm, controls the rate of charge of the alternator. So you have to be careful diagnosing -know how your system operates. That's why mechanics always ask for year, make, model, and engine size if applicable.

ckeck your ign. switch

its the alternator problem

the alternator is maybe defective. the fuel filter is clogged. fill up oil to recommended level.

Put a diesel additive in and see if that helps.

the alt is on your fan belt but not sure if it's top or bottom of your engine if it's the top then you might be able to loosen your belt tensioner remove the belt and unbolt the alt, mark all wires both on car and old alt, it really helps when refitting the new 1. then reversing the process to fit the new alt. if it's bottom of your engine then you might need to lift the engine, a lot of work.

You need to have your electrical system checked for excessive draw. If the shop that worked on it has not done so, bring it to another shop...This is a routine procedure which definitely should have been done at least after the second battery! I can't offer a solution or "quick fix" because without doing that procedure I'd only be guessing!!!

try reseting computer by unpluging battery terminal and see if will clear the default